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| Transit in Geneva on my way to Malta. |
The nomad in me is always restive after arriving home from any exhausting travel tour ,either across India or the Globe.Hence after my tour of Ireland in April decided to explore Malta,Iceland and Cyprus.Got down to my tour research and booked a round-trip online air ticket with "www.kiwi.com" which involved a change of 9 different planes starting from Mumbai on Monday(1/9/2025) and finally flying back home on Monday(22/9/2025).The total cost of the air ticket amounted to approx Rs 86,000 but a later jinxed "Abu Dhabi Transit" visa made me book a additional ticket for my return flight from Abu Dhabi to Mumbai.Booked hostel accommodation through my regular site "www.booking.com" with the hostel stay. accommodation in Valletta, Reykjavik and Larnaca amounting to a grand total of Rs 61,000 approx.As usual visited "Farshak Travels" for procedure and format of uploading the "Schengen Visa Form" that was submitted to "VFS Global" at Bandra Kurla Complex.At "VFS Global" after submitting my form had my biometrics recorded and received a "Single Entry Schengen" within a week with the cost amounting to Rs 8363.As it was a "Single Entry Schengen Visa" had to make a separate visa for Cyprus and a repeat of the same visa procedure minus the biometric recordings with the cost amounting to Rs 10,413. Visa arrived after 2 weeks and finally had to book the "Abu Dhabi Return Transit Visa" which skyrocketed my expensive tour budget due to purchase of the extra air ticket for allotment of "48 Hours Abu Dhabi Transit Visa".
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| A la "Tour de Planes" Used a total of 9 different planes on this tour that began in Mumbai on Monday(1/9/2025) and came to a end in Mumbai on Wednesday(23/9/2025) |
"Farshak Travels" billed me a grand total of Rs 26,480 as service fees which included the return extra air ticket from Abu Dhabi to Mumbai.A budget air travel plan turned into a expensive travel due to my misunderstanding of the "Abu Dhabi" transit visa rules for Indian tourists .Hence my grand total expenditure before even boarding my flight in Mumbai amounted to Rs1,92,256 only. Novice "SOLO TRAVELLERS " please remember that as a veteran traveller having travelled across 102 Country's and entire India i still make Cardinal errors planning my tours,most importantly flights and transit visa regulations and hence please keep excess money above your planned travel budget if travelling overseas.
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| During my entire air travel that began in Mumbai and ended in Mumbai changed a total of 9 different planes. JET LAG WAS A REALITY ! |
Monday(1/9/2025) Departure Mumbai and Arrival Malta(2/9/2025) :- Inaugurated my first "Aqua Metro" train journey from " Siddhivinayak Metro station " opened in May 2025 and situated about ten minutes walking distance from my house. The ticket to " CSMIA T2 " cost only Rs 50 ,a luxury " First World" A/c train in comparison to my normal airport taxi ride averaging Rs 400 - Rs 500, depending on city traffic .Was early and whiled away my time on the Smartphone. Checked-in at the " Etihad Airlines " counter at 1900 hrs and after collection of tickets most passengers including myself faced a bizarre problem of " Ticket scanning " malfunction. Matter was resolved by Etihad staff and after the routine security, immigration check surveyed the " Duty Free" shops .Scanned a tiny section of a bookshelf in a large common store.Pathetic, every time I pass through Mumbai airport observed the Duty free print version book shop reducing in size and won't be surprised if traditional print version bookshops in Mumbai airport become extinct.
Digital World has changed reading habits and change is permanent, good or bad.I myself would have never ever had a audience of readers as my own publisher if the "INTERNET" and digital media was non existent. Settled myself on a seat at " Gate 71" and later at 2215 hrs boarded flight " EY 205" and onto " Seat 24H".
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| Malta Airport based in town of Luqa approx 8 Km from Valletta and is the only airport in Malta . |
In-flight T.V was malfunctioning and just listened to music by Bee Gees. Lousy dinner and on touching down at Abu Dhabi on Tuesday, past midnight, quickly made my way to the " Transfer Section". After routine formalities made my way to " Gate B 14" to board flight " EY145" to Geneva.There was day and night difference between the Mumbai to Abu Dhabi flight and Abu Dhabi to Geneva flight's, both in quality of planes as well as onboard service's provided.
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| Vallettastay Hostel in Downtown Valletta. 65 St Mark Street, Valletta VLT 1623, Malta |
Was reminded of the controversial quote by wealthy celebrity Indian politician Mr Shashi Tharoor, quote," Most Indian travellers travel " Cattle class" on planes ".A World of difference between common economy class travel between " First World" and " Developing World" Country's. Travel educates. During the almost 7 hrs flight saw the real life movie " Last Breath" based on the profession of Deep sea divers involved in.maintenance of subsea gas pipelines in the North Sea . Scenes of the rough seas that " Supply vessels " encounter was horrific making deep sea diving one of the World's most dangerous professions.
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| Republic street( Triq ir -Repubblika) in Valletta. Main Pedestrian street 1 Km long stretching from "CITY GATE" to "FORT ELMO" |
A fact I personally experienced at " Bombay High oil rigs" during my employment on "Supply Ships" serving the Oil rigs. After a snack dozed a bit and later while relishing a sumptuous morning breakfast watched a part of the classic film " Breakfast at Tiffany's " in which a ordinary tabby cat played a major role along with vintage actors Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard.Plane touched down in Geneva at 0710 hrs and made a 100 meters dash to the " Passport transfer section" which had a long serpentine queue.Got my Schengen Visa stamped at the immigration as well as fingerprints scanned.By now I have lost count of these routine formalities in First World Country's. Next was security check where again was subjected to a new " First World Security Test" where a liquid was applied on my hand and a swab sample scanned for a receipt! I passed the test.Geneva airport is massive and from the Etihad arrival terminal where I alighted to the departure boarding gate " B44" of EasyJet flight " EZS1573 " to Malta was equivalent to a 1 km + walk or more within this sprawling airport. Excellent bright sunny morning in Geneva .At 0915 boarded the EasyJet plane and onto seat " 19D".Excellent pleasant Swiss weather.
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| St Augustine Roman Catholic church( The Church and Convent of St Augustine) originally built in 1571 AD and rebuilt in 1765 situated on Old Bakery Street a few meters from Vallettastay Dormitory. |
A very open airfield and busy airport. Got to see planes land as well as take-off while we waited our turn in the take-off queue. Our take-off was at 0955 hrs.Beautiful window seat and had some awesome sightseeing of the Swiss countryside and mountains covered by a blanket of clouds resembling a Antarctica landscape.Approaching Malta and flying across the sea spotted two tiny specks of ships sailing across the Ocean and later a flotilla of ships parked in anchorage.Touched down in Malta at 1200 hrs, the southernmost Capital of Europe and the most bombed country during World War II , Country N0 103 in my list of Globetrotting travel.Exchange rate of currency was 1 Euro = 104 Indian Rupees.The Malta public bus stop was just outside the airport and it was blazing hot sunshine ,akin to being in a desert .All the young Caucasian tourists loved sitting in the hot blazing Sun for a natural tan while waiting for the public bus.Felt i was in Dubai or Rajasthan in India in peak summer and definitely not in Europe as far as the weather was concerned.Travel educates. At 1245 hrs boarded the" X4" bus that to Valletta with the ticket being Euro 3.Valletta Bus Station situated on western end of Merchants Street was the last stop and from there inquiring directions passed alongside the landmark Triton water fountain and visited the Valletta tourism office situated in close proximity to the fountain.Made inquiries regarding " Vallettastay Dormitory " situated at " 65 St Mark Street ,Valletta 65/ Triq San Mark " as also collecting a tourist map and brochures. Walking past the short main bridge across the moat finally walked past Valletta main city gate and was now in the heart of Valletta city which packed with tourists.
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| Morning open air market in vicinity of Parliament House of Malta. |
At Republic street again made inquiries and a hotel employee guided me through a Google map.Finally from Republic street walked straight ahead and took a left turn walking downhill the narrow single street road which was St Mark street.Entered a plush designer shop ""Captains cut Leather " and on inquiry in the shop was relieved that just next door was " Vallettastay Dormitory " situated inside a historic old building .Entered the dormitory which had a Sri Lankan Mr Pushparaj and a Indian Mr Satya managing the hostel as outsourced employees and I was allotted " Bed N0 13" on the first floor.
After a bath had some rest relaxing on the internet and seemed all the employees of this Dormitory were of Asian origin.Met young Mr Suman from Nepal, a cleaner at the hostel and he gave me a few directions of the vicinity situated in the heart of the tourist enclave of Valletta. The downhill road from St Marks street led to Marsamxett ferry Terminal of Valletta for boarding the boats sailing to Sliema and Conspicua terminals(3 cities). The hostel building was just a building away from landmark " The Church and convent of St Augustine " built in 1765 and in 1968 became the third Parish of Valletta. " Vallettastay Dormitory " is situated in the thick of Valletta tourist zone and I was the lone Asian tourist although all the employees were of Asian origin.
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| Tourist attractions on Republic street in Malta. Only the snail mail " Post Office Box" is still functional in Malta. |
WIFI was available only on the ground floor of the common lobby of this ancient hostel building which seems to be straight out of the era of the Knights of St John who founded Valletta.Must have definitely been rebuilt or repaired over the decades preserving its ancient authentic architecture after World War II bombings. Ultra modern technology used in this ancient hostel with code punching lock for opening the main front door and light sensors in the entire hostel that switch on with opaque object detection. Excellent Toilet/ Bathe but electrical maintenance of switches not maintained and WIFI although excellent was not accessible in the accommodation rooms. Travel educates .Due to jet lag managed to sleep early waking up at 0015 hrs. Strangely although its burning desert sunshine in the afternoon, the nights are cool and pleasant, typical Mediterranean climate.
Wednesday(3/9/2025) Valletta:- Went down to the main lobby to the toilet as the bathroom/ toilet are on the ground floor. Came across young 28 year old American Mr William Cato from Pennsylvania and developed a conversation with him.He had the unique hobby of sending postcards of Countries visited to his relatives, a habit almost extinct among tourists of the present generation or even my generation.
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| "Valletta Free Walking Tour" conducted by 'Guru Walk" . Guide Barbara Karuana addressing us tourists. |
We all tourists and travellers confirm to the digital World of communication and young Mr Williams was one of the few tourists whom i witnessed sending postcards after the invention of digital media. He would be leaving for Paris today and back to U.S.A .As for me, a few hours of sleep did wonders .
Whiling away my time in the lounge suddenly a young Indian entered the lounge and hence made acquaintances with millennial Mr Virendra Prajapati of Noida who was back to the dormitory after a night of corporate partying. He was a entrepreneur broker influencer travelling across Europe to meet his clients and develop business contacts, a rags to riches story. Throughout my travels ,staying in various hostels have come across travellers from all walks of life and nationalities.Young Virendra and myself conversed in Hindi in distant Malta and I wouldn't be surprised if this young former village educated entrepreneur rises to a influencer Industrialist. Travel educates.Breakfast was at McDonald on Republic street and later after breakfast strolling around came across various local restaurants serving Maltese cuisine. Came across a legalized betting shop in close proximity to Parliament house building and was not surprized to find bets accepted on local Indian cricket matches.In India all forms of online betting is banned.
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| Entrance Gate to Muza in Historic Auberge d'Italie now the National Museum of Fine Arts |
In Mumbai ,before starting my epic travel had booked on-line for a free walking tour of Valletta with " Guru Walk" tour company and hence at 1030 hrs assembled outside the Parliament building. Entire Valletta seemed to be filled with package tour groups with the tourist Industry being Malta's biggest contributor to its economy.At 1030 hrs " Guru Walks" tour group leader Ms Barbra Karuana arrived with the signature " Blue Umbrella" and not surprisingly a huge crowd had assembled for the tour and hence advance booking essential.After the normal introduction she gave us a brief history of Valletta and Malta ,a total Catholic country having 359 churches and tourists outnumbering locals in the ratio 6:1. It is traditionally believed that Malta's religious route to Catholicism dates back to 60 AD when St Paul the Apostle was shipwrecked off the coast of Malta and spread Christianity in the Country and hence Catholicism has flourished in the Country influencing architecture,art , daily lifestyle and common living of the Maltese population.Valletta became a major tourist attraction after it was designated European Capital of culture in 2018 .During World War - 2 Malta was the World's most bombed city's with almost 15,000 to 16,000 tons dropped on Malta and the historic Opera House was totally destroyed. Now in its place open air concerts held.
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| Unique "Gallarija(Balcony)" Vernacular Maltese architecture |
Walked through the buildings with their unique galleries and patented " Maltese Globegerina limestone " that give all these old building a uniform golden hue.Passed alongside the " Auberge D' Italie" situated on Strada Mercanti(Merchant Street) which was built in stages in late 16th century to house the Knights of the Order of St John.In 2018 it has been converted to house the New Nationality community art museum.Adjacent to the historic Auberge D' Italia is the Parazzo Parisio where Napoleon Bonaparte resided for 6 days during his stay in Malta.Blistering hot desert Sun ,a total surprise to me and also a reason the Ottoman Turks could not conquer the Knights of St John in Valletta akin to Hitler's army being unable to conquer Stalingrad in Russia because of the extreme cold.Valletta also has ground water shortage and at present desalination water is consumed for normal washing which has a slightly saline taste .
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| Merchant Street in Valletta having numerous outdoor restaurants lining the street. "Anglo Maltese" is a restaurant on the street level and a Snooker club on the first floor of the building. |
Drinking Water is imported in bottles from other European countries. Walked up to the Upper Barrakka viewing point where the view of the Grand harbour and the 3 cities of Vittoriosa,Senglea and Conspicua was awesome. At 1200 hrs got to hear the cannon shot blast from the Cannons kept in the "Saluting Battery" just below the Upper Barrakka Gardens. A daily ritual performed at 1200 and 1600 hrs .This sea facing locale of Valletta was one of the costliest in the city as also buyers of newly purchased apartments could not alter the original limestone construction being a heritage city.Passed alongside " Iniala Harbour House" ,Malta's best 5 - Star hotel having 2 Michelin Star roof top restaurants with a classic view of Valletta Grand Harbour.Walking further ahead entered the Lower Barrakka gardens .
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| View of the street from Lower Barrakka Gardens facing the Grand Harbour. Notice the uniform golden colour of the limestone construction. . |
From Lower Barrakka Gardens it was a uphill walk and another major stop was at St John's Co Cathedral, the most visited Cathedral among the 359 churches in Malta.The Cathedral has a huge clock tower and there is a toy train ride of Valletta for tourists that begins outside the Cathedral.From the Cathedral walked further uphill towards Republic Street and at Archbishop Street came across the landmark " Pub" bar which serves only drinks,a typical landmark English pub..The " Pub" has been voted the 5th most legendary pub in the World and one of the reasons could be due due to the tragic death of alcoholic Hollywood actor Oliver Reed who in 1999 died from a " Heart Attack" in this pub while competing with English sailors from "HMS Cumberland" to a drink competition and arm wrestling.. The average Sailor' s profession is one of the toughest among human species and actor Oliver Reed lost the bet of his life challenging the young sailors. He was in Valletta for the filming of the English film " Gladiator".
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| Church of St Francis of Assisi built in 1598 and completed in 1607. |
As for me suddenly realized I had lost track of our tour leader and walked back to my home away from home along the now familiar route.Later in the evening made my way into now familiar Republic street and visited the Church of St Francis of Assisi ,very ordinary looking from its exterior and as usual the interior of this Baroque style church was beyond description as are all churches in Europe. The Dome is adorned with frescoes .Walked along Baker Street and came across a Anglican church belonging to the Church of Scotland.
Made my way back to Parliament House and paid Guide Barbra her tip of Euro 10.
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| At Malta Stock Exchange. |
Nothing in life is free including " Free Walking tours".Everyone has to earn a living. Wandered along Republic street and came across the imposing 18th century Neoclassical "National Library of Malta" also known as the Bibliotheca. A huge marble statue of Queen Victoria stands in front of the National library of Malta and the entire square in front of the building is called "Republic Square" and has open air restaurants. Entered the palatial "Is Suq tal-Belt(Valletta Food Market)" also called " Covered market" situated next to the National library building that has a palatial food court. From National library building walked over towards " The Pub" and at Archbishop street came across a tour travel agent and booked a day tour to Gozo and Camino with "Supreme Cruises" tour company costing Euro 42.
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| National Library of Valletta with Statue of Queen Victoria in front of the building. This Square is called "Republic Square". |
A short distance downhill was the bar where actor Oliver Reed succumbed to a heart attack in 1999 during a drinking bout and arm wrestling with Royal Navy sailors of " HMS Cumberland". Entered " The Pub", surprised to find it very ordinary looking akin to other common numerous pubs in Europe . Definitely not 5-star type for a famed Hollywood actor to entertain himself.
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| Cruising on the ferry "DELFINA" on the Mediterranean sea with destination being Gozo and Comino Islands of Malta and a swim at the World famous " Blue Lagoon ". |
Thursday (4/9/2025)Valletta:- At approximately 0200 hrs Influencer Virender arrived from one of his Industrialist party's .Later just relaxed in my room having 4 Dormitory beds and spacious as well as cool although there was no A/ C but simple fans supplying cool air. Staying in " Vallettastay Dormitory " located on a foundation of a almost 500 year old Maltese townhouse which must have definitely been rebuilt over the centuries was akin to living in a ancient private Bungalow .One of the oldest building's I have lived in during my travels across Europe which is famous for its numerous ancient buildings. At 0645 hrs got dressed and made my way out of the dormitory, a long uphill walk from St Marks Street towards Republic Street.
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| View of Sliema Coastline of Malta with plush buildings totally different from ancient walled city of Valletta . |
Just on the uphill slope nearing main Republic street spotted ' St Francis Cafeteria" having a few outdoors seating arrangement and busy serving early morning Maltese employees their breakfast.After inquiry, breakfast in " St Francis Cafeteria " was a excellent ham sandwich with Mumbai style tea served in a glass.
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| Independence Monument outside Independence Garden at Great Siege Road in Floriana Town in Malta. Inaugurated on 23 September 1989. |
The tea brought back memories of the occasional omelette breakfast at plush " Gallops Restaurant " at the Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai after my normal jogging at the racetrack.
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| St Publius Parish church ( Floriana Parish Church) is a landmark of the vicinity completed in 1892 by the Knights of Malta. Was bombed in 1942 during World War II and repaired after the war. |
A local lady also gave me a free local Maltese snack ,a small puff filled with cheese called Pastiche. Finally got to experience the average lifestyle of the daily office goer and wage earners of Valletta. After breakfast walked towards Parliament House and further up past the open Opera House towards the Upper Barrakka Gardens.
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| On the sightseeing bus on Gozo island in Malta. |
As it was early morning the packed tourist crowd was missing and entered " Upper Barrakka Gardens " and produced a video.Today was my first group tour of my travel with " Supreme Tours" and the meeting point for boarding the bus was outside Hotel Phoenica situated near Valletta city bus depot outside the City gate.Walked passed the moat bridge of Valletta city onto the fountain and did sightseeing of the surrounding vicinity at leisure.Took a picture of the landmark " Christ the King " bronze monument by Maltese sculptor Antonio Sciortino unveiled in 1917 .The monument includes the figure of a lady representing Malta kneeling in front of Jesus Christ.
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| Citadella (Castello) is the citadel of Victoria on the Island of Gozo.Area has been occupied since the Bronze Age.Has museums , a interpretation centre and a Cathedral. |
This monument was built to commemorate the Eucharistic Congress of 1913.From the monument walked into " The Mall" garden which has a statue of " The Monument to Independence" of Malta.Further down the road along Mall garden is the imposing sight of St Publius Parish church building with a temporary stage being erected for a function to be held on the sprawling ground facing the Church.
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| View of Gozo Island, second largest Island of the 7 island chain of Malta off the coast of Sicily in Italy.. Gozo Island's Capital is Victoria(Rabat). |
Finally at 0930 hrs boarded the " Supreme Tours" bus outside plush " Hotel Phoenica ".The packed bus drove us to Sliema pier that had a day and night difference in comparison to Valletta city.Except for a few limestone buildings which included the Jesus of Nazareth church the rest of the housing was modern 21st century apartments .The was a huge tourist crowd for the " Gozo ,Comino and Blue Lagoon" day cruise conducted by " Supreme Cruises" and on arrival at the pier each tourist booking ticket was checked and a " Wrist band" handed akin to attending a rock concert.
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| " Delfini " our tour Ferry boat at Mgarr Harbour of Gozo Island |
Boarded the ferry " Delfini" and at 1030 hrs we set sail towards our destination Gozo island.After over a year was sailing on the high seas and our first stop at 1145 hrs was at Bugiba Jetty to collect a few tourists on our way to Gozo." Delfina" ferry had a bar along with refreshments and it was pleasant sailing on the calm Mediterranean sea. Finally at 1245 hrs we docked alongside picturesque Mgarr harbour of Gozo Island.Once on the Jetty we had to board the green coloured double decker tourist sightseeing bus with a open Upper deck.After years was travelling on such a bus and it was a long 6 Km drive from Gozo Jetty to Victoria, the city centre of Gozo Island.Got a glimpse of Gozo countryside which looked barren and seems the " Godfather Movies" picturization of Sicily could be replicated in Gozo .
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| Victoria ,the Capital of Gozo island in Malta. Market and Restaurants |
At 1315 hrs we reached Victoria and from there boarded the tourist train tram paying Euro 3 return fare for the short distance to main Victoria city centre with its towering Citadel.On reaching the town centre walked midway towards the historic Citadel avoiding a trek to the top as I had to conserve energy at my young age.Strolled around the city centre and as usual came across majestic church buildings.Capital Victoria in Gozo is a smaller twin city of the Capital Valletta in housing construction and churches.All limestone buildings with a maximum height of 4 storeys.Entered a museum where there was a exhibition on " Chickens", yes the common table food chicken bird.Excellent photographs on this common overlooked bird seen only as the perfect meal.Was thinking of having rabbit meat for lunch but realized the meal would be too large for me to consume in a single sitting and hence just had a snack with lemon juice.
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| View of picturesque Mgarr Harbour of Gozo Island with ultra luxury apartments overlooking the harbour. |
Hot Sun overhead but otherwise cool breeze , typical Mediterranean climate, considered the World's best climate and people of the Mediterranean region have a longer healthy lifespan than the average human across the Globe.Buggy driving is popular on Gozo island and came across a few tourists driving their Buggies. At 1445 hrs boarded the " Train Buggy" ride back to Victoria City centre tourist bus terminus.Boarded the bus and returned back to Gozo jetty.At 1530 hrs our ferry " Delfini" set sail to " Blue Lagoon "off the coast of Comino Island. After a short sailing at 1550 hrs we berthed alongside the rocky coast of " Blue Lagoon".Before us there were some other cruise sail ships and their tourists were busy swimming in the indescribable Blue clean waters of this sheltered Lagoon.
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| Narrator having a dip at " BLUE LAGOON " . Very Rocky shore and requires care while wading from shore to the " Blue Lagoon " crystal clear waters.I received abrasions scraping against the rocks. |
We tourists of " Delfini" quickly got down to swimming and I parked myself on a rock and carefully waded into the Mediterranean sea.The coast is made up of slippery sharp rocks and a tourist has to be careful while walking along these rocks into the deep.Excellent cool and crystal clear water.All.my travel jet leg tiredness and Insomnia fatigue disappeared after a dip in the sea and strokes of swimming.Did my usual " BACK FLOAT YOGA" normally a daily routine in the swimming.pool in Mumbai.I was the lone South Asian tourist among the sea of Caucasian tourists and a few black tourists.Saw the latest in women bikini fashionwear and the " Blue Lagoon" tour is a daily mega buster outdoor success for tour companies in Malta.A special permission is also required for permission to swim in one of Malta's biggest natural tourist attraction. At 1515 hrs our ferry heaved anchor and we headed back home towards Sliema ferry Terminal.
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| "Bugibba Jetty" is the Gateway for boat tours to Comino Islands, Gozo and Blue Lagoon. |
Enroute stopped at Bugibba Jetty to drop off a few tourists.Got to view the Malta coastline as we sailed hugging the coast.Seems barring Valletta and Gozo the rest of Malta has been turned into a concrete jungle of 21st century concrete buildings.Malta lacks land expansion being an island and hence all buildings from a distance resemble " Matchbox houses", absolutely close to each other with not much space between buildings let alone large palatial compound's.
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| Republic Street of Valletta Illuminated at Night |
Finally at 1915 hrs reached Sliema ferry terminal and from there boarded the tour bus back to starting point " Hotel Phoenicia ".Walked passed the beautiful lighted fountain into Valletta city.There was some concert being enacted in the open air theatre of the ruins of the Royal Opera.Watched a part of the concert performed in a mix of Maltese and English language.Walked to the 24/7 Spars supermarket and on recommendation from a elderly lady purchased grapes and dinner was the sweetest grapes i tasted along with yoghurt and a Pepsi drink.At the dormitory a aged Italian couple from Rome Ms Ana and her husband Moriarty Pereira had checked into our 4 bed room.Now the place truly resembled a homely atmosphere in a ancient building.
As usual Insomnia hasn't deserted me and after just 2 1/2 hrs sleep was awake in the lounge updating my days travelogue.
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| In front of the main altar of St John's Co Cathedral in Valletta. |
Friday (5/9/2025) Valletta:- At 0745 hrs walked the steep uphill road to local " St Francis Cafeteria " that specializes in serving breakfast. Breakfast was a " Omelette/ cheese/ ham sandwich " with a glass of tea costing Euro 5.20, excellent and filling to last the day.I have put on excessive weight and was hoping to be on a diet during my travel .At 0830 hrs made my way to St John's Co Cathedral and was one of the first tourists of the day in the queue to purchase the entrance tickets.The entrance tickets sale opened at 0900 hrs with admission charges being Euro 14 for adults and Euro 12 for Senior citizens.The entrance fee included hand held audio guide with 20 numbered stops inside the church pathway .Being a Catholic I got a revision of my catechism classes while getting a chance to view a historic Catholic church with its history dating to the Knights of St John.
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| "PALACE ARMOURY" in "Grand Masters Palace" in Valletta. Scary real life soldier Mannequin models in this palatial museum. |
Excellent audio guide explaining all the religious artwork and the most important exhibit is the painting of St John the Baptist by the artist Carravagio.The Caravaggio painting is the last exhibit on the audio tour and a separate exhibit room explains the manner in which this painting was created by Carravagio.Also got to view the restoration of a painting as some paintings deteriorated with age.Very educative . I entered the Cathedral at 0915 hrs and left at 1145 hrs , almost 2 hrs 30 minutes inside this majestic, Cathedral. Returned back to home away from home Vallettastay Dormitory. After a brief rest made my way back to Republic street and visited the " Grand Masters Palace" situated opposite landmark St George's Square(Palace Square). The Grandmaster's Palace officially known as The Palace was built between the 16th and 18th centuries as the palace of the Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller, who ruled Malta from 1530 to 1798, and was also known as the Magisterial Palace.
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| " Palace Armoury " museum. Most valuable historical monuments of European culture. |
The Palace currently houses the Office of the President of Malta. It was also the seat of the Parliament of Malta from 1921 to 2015. Parts of the building, namely the Palace State Rooms and the Palace Armoury are open to the public as a museum run by Heritage Malta which i would be visiting as a tourist..Entrance ticket for retiree's over the age of 60 was Euro 10 while normal ticket was Euro 12.Real majestic and palatial building that is true to its status as Grand Masters palace.Palatial rooms and the "Palace Armoury "museum was unbelievable in quantity of medieval weapons on exhibit as well as the colossal size of the exhibit room.The arms collection in the Palace Armoury is regarded as one of the most valuable historic monuments of European culture, despite retaining only a fraction of its original size. The armoury includes many suits of armour, cannons, firearms, swords, and other weapons, including the personal armour of some Grand Masters such as Alof de Wignacourt, and Ottoman weapons captured during the Great Siege of Malta in 1565.
The faces of the Mannequins of the exhibits of a few Knights in armour was frightfully similar to real humans and I wouldn't like being alone at night in this museum.
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| "GREAT SIEGE MONUMENT". |
The Palace is authentically reputed to be haunted .After the Grand Master museum tour walked back to the dormitory, a short downhill hike from Republic Street.After a short rest walked downhill along St Martin's Street from Vallettastay Dormitory to Marsamxett ferry pier of Valletta ,small in comparison to 3 cities ferry pier on the opposite side below Upper Barrakka gardens .
From Marsamxett pier tracked back again uphill onto Republic road and to a casual observer it would seem I was preparing for a mountain expedition. Inquired direction to once upon a time infamous sailors hideout of Valletta, "Strait Street".Walked upto the Grand Masters palace where St George's Square was all ready to host a grand concert tomorrow night.The square dates back to the 17th century and was originally used for military purposes before becoming a social and entertainment center.It has been the site of significant historical events, including royal visits and the presentation of the George Cross to Malta. Victory Day is a public holiday in Malta celebrated annually on 8 September and hence functions and celebrations across Malta.Asking direction discovered once infamous " STRAIT STREET" running parallel to Republic street on the next narrow lane.There was a string of restaurants on Strait Street and seems the action goes past midnight in some of these entertainment bars.
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| Marsamxett ferry pier of Valletta . Notice the beautiful small traditional Maltese tour boats called "Dhajsa". Take a ride on one of these small boats instead of the large ferry. |
Walked the entire length of narrow " Strait Street" and returning walked alongside the Court of Justice building and came across a barricade in front of Great Siege Square. A military brass band was assembled at the square and guests dressed in suits were taking their places on the chairs assembled in front of the dais.The Great Siege Monument also known as the Monument to the Fallen of the Great Siege,is a monument commemorating the Great Siege of Malta .
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| A common sight in Valletta. Tourists outnumber the local population of Malta in the ratio of 6 tourists to 1 Maltese. . |
It consists of three bronze figures symbolizing Faith, Fortitude (or Valour), and Civilization, standing on top of a granite base. The monument is the work of the sculptor Antonio Sciortino, and it was inaugurated on 8 May 1927. There is a prominent bronze bust of Pope Pius V at a corner of this square.Pope Pius V was instrumental in the development of Valletta.A sparse crowd including myself stood outside the barricade .Suddenly 2 cars arrived with sirens accompanied by 2 police escort motorcycles .A few dignitaries rushed to the greet the guest who alighted the car along with his wife.The gentleman standing next to me waved out to the couple and to my utter surprise the Prime Minister of Malta Mr Robert Abela walked over towards us and greeted the gentleman next to me as also shaking my hand and speaking a few words.He then made his way to the front seat along with his wife Mrs Lydia.Abela(Nee Zerafa).
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| Nomadic Narrator at a hilarious restaurant on " STRAIT STREET. " |
I casually asked the gentleman the name of this V.I.P and on hearing his name felt I had hit the million dollar Jackpot.How many ordinary citizens can say that they shook the hand of a Country's Prime Minister ? I do keep myself informed about my Country's politics and important political leaders but just as a general knowledge and regarding business decisions but never ever actively involved in politics .Later after hearing the Brass band play a few tunes made my way towards McDonalds for dinner and back to Vallettastay Dormitory. Seems the dormitory was now housefull due to Malta Victory day celebration. As for me it was another milestone in my travel graph of having met the Prime Minister of Malta." Braggers Rights" club is stunned.Dinner was at the McDonalds and as usual just 3 hrs sleep.
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| Inside Mdina City Fortress .Maintained in it's original Medieval architecture style and street design along with 21st century human habitation. Malta's big tourist attraction. |
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| Archbishop Palace in Mdina. |
Saturday (6/9/2025) Valletta: - Walked to the Valletta bus terminal early morning and on inquiry made my way to the 51,52 & 53 bus stop.Boarded the N0 52 bus with my destination being Mdina city .Ticket was Euro 3 paid directly to the bus driver .A pleasant early morning journey and at 0700 hrs reached Mdina.From the bus stop it was a short walk to the main entrance gate of the Old Mdina city fortress.
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| Inside Mdina Fortress city. UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE CITY. |
Came across a pony cart rider reminding me of the harness races ..I was one of the few early tourists and came across a young lady jogging along with her dog as also early morning hobby cyclists.Mdina Old City was a miniature replica of Valletta but the fortified walls seemed better maintained as also the narrow roads within the City fortress." Mdina was Malta's former capital from antiquity to the medieval period.
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| Greek Gate Entrance to Mdina Fortress City. |
Mdina remained the centre of the Maltese nobility and religious authorities, and property largely continues to be passed down in families from generation to generation. The city has never regained the importance it had before 1530, giving rise to the popular nickname the "Silent City" among both locals and visitors.Mdina, having largely maintained its medieval character, is on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and has become one of the main tourist attractions in Malta and the city has not spread beyond its ancient walls, and has a population of 250.In fact i felt i was inside a palatial fortified film set of a 16th century city.The Count of Monte Cristo" and the " Game of thrones" have been filmed within this city fortress.
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| Classic breakfast at Fontabella Tea Gardens inside Mdina Fortress City.Situated near Bastian Square with a beautiful view of the city below. |
It is a small fortress and easy to navigate unlike Valletta Old city which is very expansive.Having done my tour research, on arriving at famous " Fontabella Tea Gardens" found it closed and inquired with Mr Praveen ,a Indian employee about the opening times which was 0930 hrs and proceeded on my self discovery tour of tiny Mdina city fortress.Walked upto Bastian Square that offer panoramic views of the city below and felt spooky strolling all alone in this ancient city that topographically hasn't changed much since the middle ages.Entered the Carmelite church called " The Church of the Annunciation" as it was open and a normal mass service in Maltese language was in progress almost nearing end of the service with only a total of 12 worshippers attending the early morning mass that must have started at 0700 hrs.A beautiful church and after mass just strolled around Mdina Old city.
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| Tourist rush hours into Mdina Fortress city through main gate after crossing the moat. |
Malta has a total of 359 churches and the number of palatial churches per Sq Km within tiny Mdina Old city could be the maximum in the country.Unbelievable but true.Visited St Paul's Metropolitan Cathedral and later the tourist office situated just inside the main entrance gate of Mdina Old city.Received some guidance from the receptionist along with a map of Mdina Old city.The city police station is also right in front of the main entrance gate.St Peters Monastery of the Benedectine monks also faces the main entrance gate.Very well maintained narrow roads and at times I got the impression I was on the film set of a fortress , such was the neat maintenance and preservation of the historic limestone edifices.There are 2 entrance gates into Mdina fortress the other gate being the " Greek Gate". Strolling across the narrow maze of roads came across " Bachus restaurant" which was a ancient former noble house converted to a restaurant.
Travel educates as I have read the " Count of Monte Cristo" and here I was living a scene from this classic film.
NOTE :- VIDEO SHOWING THE UNDERGROUND PASSAGE OF ST PAUL'S CATACOMBS AND WORLD WAR -II SHELTERS IN RABAT IN MALTA .ENTRANCE IS THROUGH WIGNACOURT MUSEUM.
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| View of well preserved burial chamber inside Catacombs. |
At 0930 hrs made my way to Fontabella Tea Gardens restaurant and breakfast was English style tea served in a teapot and local Maltese breakfast cuisine called " Ftira " which had cheese and sausages served in a hard bread akin to a hamburger along with a personal mix of olive oil.Something different from the normal.As it was too large for me to consume in a single sitting requested the steward to parcel half of this giant bread.The total bill amounted to Euro 9.80,excellent .Most importantly the view of the plains below from the elevated height of Fontabella Tea Gardens was scenic and the restaurant was crowded by the time I finished my breakfast.Considered the best restaurant in Mdina old city and famous for its cakes as also moderately priced considering the tourist locality and its celebrity. reputation.
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| Rabat City. |
Horse Carriage rides were on display for tourists.Got to view the numerous tourist shops within Mdina city fortress.Took a photo for " Braggers Rights club" with me being beheaded the medieval way, a popular tourist photo shoot.By the time of my departure from Mdina Fort at 1045 hrs the influx of tourists into the fortress city was tremendous.Fortunate to have witnessed the silence of the city in the early morning akin to being in the " Middle Ages" and now in peak tourist rush hour back to the 21st century.
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| Colourful Vintage Maltese tourist bus from Rabat to Valletta. |
My next destination was to Rabat to view the Catacombs.Stopped at a cafe for a coke costing only Euro 2.5 and finished the rest of my carryover parcel breakfast in the cafe , contended I didn't waste the food.It was a long walk to St Paul's Basilica in Rabat and on the way came across a butchers shop and the marketing habit in me made me enter the shop and enquire the price of daily meat products I purchase back home in Mumbai.Lamb was priciest at Euro 15.5 followed by beef at Euro 15 , pork at Euro 7.5 and cheapest as usual was chicken at Euro 5.Cost of living between Malta,a First World Country and India a developing country is incomparable.Finally after a long walk reached St Pauls Basilica and on inquiry was directed towards the " Wignacourt Museum" situated a short distance from St Pauls Basilica.
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| Procession of Statue of Virgin Mother Mary on Street of Valletta to St Augustine Church. |
The Wignacourt Museum is housed in an 18th-century Baroque building which housed the Chaplains of the Order of St. John, and it is named after Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt, who ruled over the Maltese Islands between 1601 and 1622.Entrance to the museum was Euro 6 along with a " Audio guide".Excellent audio guide and got to view " St Paul's Grotto", the " World War 2" shelters and the " Catacombs".In the main building. The ground and first floor has religious paintings and artefacts of the Catholic church.After completion of my tour the next assignment was finding the bus back to Valletta. Inquiring directions finally reached the bus stop of 51,52 and 53 buses.Waiting for the bus suddenly spotted the unique old vintage Maltese bus used for public transport until 1911 and now discontinued. Took a ride on this vintage bus costing Euro 2.5 and it was faster than the normal bus with no stops akin to a private taxi.Excellent.Relaxed in the dormitory and later in the evening strolled across Republic street.Since last 2 days a stage was being set for a Opera concert on St George's Square facing the Grand Masters palace .Standee's were allowed to watch this open air concerts titled " OPERA IN THE CAPITAL ", a annual event in Valletta. As I was early took a stroll along " Strait Street" and noticed a procession arriving uphill from the base of Valletta Ferry pier with the clergy and assistants carrying a large statue of Virgin Mother Mary.
The chiming of the church bells could be heard since the last 2 hrs in our dormitory as the " Church and Convent of St Augustine " popularly called St Augustine church is just a few meters away from Vallettastay Dormitory. Followed the procession, a once in a lifetime experience in a European country having 359 church's and Catholicism the Country's dominant religion. The procession finally came to an end inside St Augustine Church where the statue was installed.
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| End to the grand concert "Opera in the Capital". |
Later strolling along Republic street came across a man and a woman in masks canvassing regarding the cruelty in animal slaughter depicting slaughter of pigs and other farm animals.Seems to be a offspring of " P.E.T.A" .Further came across a latest gimmick of a group clicking instant photo's free and printing the same on a paper akin to a magazine and making you feel like a " Page 3 Celebrity ".Change is permanent in advertisements and self promotion.The " Opera in the Capital" musical concert started at 2100 hrs, a houseful audience with rest of us watching from the barricaded sidelines of St George's Square, the venue of the concert..Malta Philharmonic Orchestra was performing . A annual free event by invitation in Valletta and this year’s edition featured the voices of tenors Alan Sciberras and Cliff Zammit Stevens, joined by renowned vocalist Nadine Axisa. A 100 year old British women had flown specially from England to attend this concert as her husband was based in Valletta during World War -2. Hence the song " Happy Birthday Frances" was played during the show. Few are privileged to touch 100 years absolutely physically fit.Was lucky to be allotted a extra seat after the concert started .Although the language was Maltese with just 2 songs in English the Soprano singers were marvellous and the best in their class .The Opera came to a end at 1045 hrs and it was a night to remember .
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| "COURTS OF JUSTICE BUILDING", the Courthouse on Republic Street.Built in neoclassical style between 1965-1971 on the site of Auberge d'Auvergne which was bombed during World War II |
Sunday(7/8/2025) Valletta :- " Vallettastay Dormitory " was akin to staying in a private rented accomodation as there was no reception staff nor any employee of the owners residing on the premises.Every aspect from guest " Check- in" to " Check -out" was online, remote controlled .The Asian house keeping staff arrived twice daily to collect garbage, laundry, etc and departed ,never ever residing in the palatial accommodation. Had presumed " Clink I lar", the hostel I stayed in Dublin in April was ultra digital and remote controlled but here " Vallettastay Dormitory " was one up,total outsourcing of employee's with just no employee of the owners residing or conducting the business personally, a first experience in my decades of travel and stay in numerous hostels.
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| A big thanks to local Maltese hobby fisherman Mr Ramon.Bezzina for allowing me for this "Film Shoot" next to Fort Angelo pier. Indescribable beautiful yacht harbour. |
Today breakfast was chocolate biscuit with black coffee ,a attempt to control my weight.Strolled towards Fort Saint Elmo which was again a long downhill walk from Republic Street.Fort Saint Elmo played a important role during World War -2 but is best known for its role in the Great Siege of Malta by the Turks in 1565.On reaching Fort St Elmo made my way back, a uphill walk and came at 74 Republic street across " Casa Rocca Picolla" ,the 16th century private residence of a Maltese Noble family.Tourists are allowed inside this private residence.
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| Narrator on Fort Angelo at The cannon facing the Grand Harbour. |
Finally walked the long distance to Upper Barrakka Gardens with the intention of visiting the Lascaris War rooms.Today being a Sunday it was closed and so decided to visit 3 City's situated across the Grand Harbour facing Valletta city.The Three Cities is a collective description of the three fortified cities of Vittoriosa( Birju), Senglea and Cospicua facing the Grand Harbour . The oldest of the Three Cities is Vittoriosa, which has existed since prior to the Middle Ages. The other two cities, Senglea and Cospicua, were both founded by the Order of Saint John in the 16th and 17th centuries. There is a lift service that leads directly down to Valletta ferry terminal from Upper Barrakka gardens .On payment of Euro 1 boarded the lift and was transported to ground level.The ferry terminal was a short walk across the road from the exit terminal of " Barraka Lift".Boarded the ferry with the fare being Euro 3 for a single trip to Bormla wharf at Vittoriosa town also called Birgu .Most notable edifice is the Collegiate church of Saint Lawrence built by Lorenzo Gafa between 1681 and 1697. It is a fine example of Roman baroque architecture, with a richly decorated interior situated on a elevated section in Vittoriosa( Birgu).St. Lawrence originally served as the conventual church of the Order of St. John before the building of Valletta and St John's Co-Cathedral. It was blazing hot sunshine and decided to visit Fort St Angelo.Passed alongside Malta Maritime museum which is the largest museum in Malta.
Walking towards Fort St Angelo came across a young man fishing along the wharf and struck a conversation with local Maltese Mr Ramon.Bezzina and posed for a fishing photograph .
Entry to Fort St Angelo was Euro 6 for Senior citizens( 60 + Age) and surprised that although belonging to the E.U confederation the retirement age in Malta is 60 years while in majority of European countries it is 65 years.
Downloaded the audio guide on my phone as WiFi was provided but couldn't make use of the same as the blistering hot Sun made viewing uncomfortable and difficult.
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| "Maltese Kitchen " on Merchants Street in Valletta. Famous for serving the National dish of Malta which is "Rabbit Meat".Lunch was "Rabbit Stew/Bread/Chips". |
The views from the Fort was awesome and was at the right place at the right time to see the Norwegian cruise ship," Norwegian Epic" dock into Valletta Harbour.Visited the Fort museum which continuously screens the history and importance of Fort St Angelo on a giant indoor screen.At 1200 hrs got to hear the blasting of the canon shot from the " Saluting Battery" locale situated a floor below upper Barrakka garden.Today about 4 to 5 canon shots were fired setting a great spectacle of smoke trail in the sky.Finally made my way out of Fort St Angelo and boarded the traditional small Maltese ferry with the cost being Euro 2.5 and a excellent private boat ride unlike the large ferry.
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| View of Fort Elmo from Republic Street |
On reaching Valletta boarded the lift to Upper Barrakka Gardens and took the route through " Merchants Street" which had a string of eateries set up along the narrow side of the road.Decided to taste Malta's favourite cuisine " Rabbit Meat". Googled for restaurants and came across " La Pira Maltese Kitchen " which was a open air restaurant on " Merchants Street".Lunch was a sumptuous " Rabbit Stew/ Bread/ Chips" costing Euro 25. My costliest meal of the tour.Excellent preparation and I managed to consume the entire dish.I avoid large expensive meals not for thrift at my young age but for the simple reason to avoid wastage as most restaurant meals are meant to be shared between 2 diners.The drawbacks of " Solo travel".In the evening strolled along Merchants Street,the entire street road occupied by plush restaurants having outdoor seatings.Malta is one of the Country's in the World that has the unique distinction of having more tourists than local residents at any given time in the ratio of 6 tourists for every Maltese citizen and I realized the same just strolling around Valletta.
Monday(8/9/2025)Departure Valletta:- My last day in Valletta and my home away from home " Vallettastay Dormitory " situated in the heart of picturesque Valletta Old City.Today also happened to be " Victory Day" that is a grand celebration across Malta, most notably in Valletta. Early morning met Mr Roberto , a young doctor from Equador based in Barcelona who was also leaving today.Seems you can't keep luggage in the hostel after check-out and hence would have to sightsee Valletta with my backpack.
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| A guided tour of Lascaris War Rooms. |
My stay in " Vallettastay Dormitory" was akin to living in a BnB heritage bungalow with other guests on a rental basis.All labour was contractual with no permanent employee at the hostel. Mr Suman from India who conversed with me in Hindi cleaned 5 hostels a day including " Vallettastay Dormitory ".Very professional 21st century managed hostel although the foundation of this building could be 500 years old dating back to the " Knights of St John" establishment of Valletta city. Travel educates.At 0900 hrs said goodbye to "Vallettastay Dormitory " and akin to a local walked past St Augustine Church and then uphill to Republic street next to " Spare 24/7 supermarket ".As my departure was at 1710 hrs decided to visit the " Lascaris War Rooms" situated below Upper Barrakka Gardens. Was told to keep my luggage at " Manoel Boutique hotel", the head office hotel of " Vallettastay Dormitory " but just couldn't locate the address. Hence decided to sightsee Old Valletta carrying the light load of my backpack.Was early at entrance reception of " Lascaris War Rooms/ Artillery Battery" and hence whiled away my time sitting in the beautiful Upper Barrakka Gardens crowded with tourists. At 1000 hrs was one of the first tourists to purchase a ticket costing Euro 23 which allowed me access to the " Lascaris War Rooms" as well as later at 1200 hrs to watch the firing of canon shots from the battery ground just below the gardens.
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| Large Map Table within Lascaris War Rooms. |
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| War Office within Lascaris War Rooms |
Thankfully the receptionist allowed me to keep my luggage in a corner of the reception counter.From the reception counter it was a long downhill walk to the base of Upper Barraka Gardens facing the Grand Harbour coast.Had to walk through a long underground tunnel to finally reach the underground reception of " Lascaris War Room".Situated approximately 45 meters deep beneath the Upper Barrakka Gardens and the Saluting Battery ,the Lascaris War Rooms stand as one of Malta’s best-kept secrets from World War II.In 1943, the war HQ rooms were used as the advance Allied HQ in the run-up to Operation Husky, the invasion of Sicily/Italy. Both, US General Eisenhower and British Field Marshal Montgomery as well as other military big shots would all have been at work down here at that time. Opened in time for "Operation Husky", the Allied invasion of Sicily on 9/10 July 1943, these War Rooms comprise a vast network of underground tunnels and chambers that served as the British armed forces " Combined War HQ" in Malta. From this strategic location, US General Dwight Eisenhower, as Supreme Commander of Allied Forces, launched the invasion of Sicily in 1943. The War Rooms played a crucial role in directing the defense of the island against Axis aggression and the Mediterranean War in general.Throughout the war, around 1000 people worked in the rooms, including 240 soldiers.After the war, Lascaris became the Headquarters of the Royal Navy's Mediterranean Fleet and played an active part during the Suez Crisis of 1956, and were put into full alert during the Cuban Missile Crisis of 1962, when a Soviet missile strike against Malta was feared
.In 1967, the complex was taken over by NATO to be used as a strategic Communication Centre for the interception of Soviet submarines in the Mediterranean. The war rooms continued to serve this function until they were closed down in 1977.The present day Lascaris War Rooms are reconstructed WWII command rooms for tourist viewing , including an RAF Fighter Control Room, and are a top dark-tourism attraction.Tourists can scan a application to get a guided Commentary through their phones.Otherwise there are guided tours.The first guided tour of the day was at 1030 hrs conducted by guide Mr Luke." OPERATION HUSKY " regarding liberation and capture of Sicily was planned and coordinated from the Lascaris War Rooms. Guide Mr Luke was thorough in explaining the history and I realized that if I had to undertake the entire guided tour would miss the Canon firing at 1200 hrs.Excused myself from the small tour group and did the rest of sightseeing on my own.A amateur student of history especially World War -II was familiar with the names of the generals of the main theatre of war .After a quick look at the exhibits made my way back to the top of Upper Barraka Gardens. Today 8 September was celebrated as " Victory Day " in Malta and a public holiday.A huge crowd and 8 Cannons assembled facing the Grand Harbour of Valletta. At 1200 hrs the canons fired one by one in a serial sequence,a scene I has seen for the first time in my life.After the Canon firing ceremony quickly collected my backpack and made my way towards the Parliament building.A hurried lunch was " Lamb Kebbabs" costing Euro 11.5 at " Lebaneese Kebab and Grill " on Falafel Street just opposite Parliament building and next to Valletta's betting shop.
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| Tourists and Locals watching the '8 September Victory Gun Salute" from "Upper Barrakka Gardens" on top and on the Saluting Battery ground. |
After lunch walked past familiar Trikon fountain onto the main bus terminus.At B1 bus stop after a short waiting period at 1300 hrs boarded the direct airport T4 bus. Reached Valletta airport at 1320 hrs the fare amounting to Euro 3.5.Was early and at 1440 hrs the check- in counter for " KM Malta Airlines" for flight " KM 466" to Paris Orly opened and after the formalities collected my air ticket. Boarding was at 1650 hrs from " Gate No 9" and for the first time in a First walked country from the airport to the plane. Malta is really unique.Bizzarely also for the first time in. my life my seat " 30C" was the last seat in the plane.A backbencher !
Departure was punctual and a smooth 3 hrs flight to Paris touching down at Paris Orly airport at 2010 hrs.Made my way towards the transfer section and parked myself on one of the chairs as I had to spend a entire night at Orly airport with my " Easy Jet" flight to Reykjavik scheduled at 0710 hrs for tomorrow morning .
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| Indescribably beautiful Reykjavik.The top 3 happiest country's in the World in 2025 are Finland,Denmark and Iceland. |
Tuesday (9/9/2025) Orly Airport ,Paris :- Seems I have a affinity for spending long nights at airports,something I detest having experienced it too often in recent years due to my own travel planning errors.Hazards of every Solo traveller as also the fun in extreme air travel experience.Remember it is the roller coaster journey ride and not the final destination that is one of the thrills of indulging in "Solo Travel" .Akin to scaling Mt Everest without assisted oxygen tanks.To my horror realized Orly airport has 3 different terminals. Terminals 1,2 and 3. After being all alone for almost 2 hrs realized something amiss as i didn't see any passengers and this section of the airport seemed closed.
Realized my flight was from Terminal 1.After inquiry finally traced back my way and was happy to see a small crowd of passengers in the waiting lounge of ORLY - 1. Another terrible night in a airport in Paris, the previous being in 2023 at Charles De Gaul airport.Finally at 0440 hrs made my way past security check into the " B" Gates section.Boarded onto the " Easy Jet " flight at 0640 hrs onto " Seat 26 C".Excellent 3 hours flight and at 0810 hrs on a cloudy rainy morning landed at Keflavik airport in Reykjavik ,Country N0 104 visited during my lifetime. Definitely within the 3 most expensive Countries I have travelled across the Globe.In Iceland the currency is Icelandic Kroner and not the Euro and hence a lot of money is also lost during currency exchange on the travel card .1 U.S Dollar = 123 Icelandic Kroner. At first searched for the " N0 55 " bus outside the airport but couldn't spot tourists in the drizzling rain but just a empty bus stop.Returned back into the airport and booked a bus ticket at the local " Fly Bus" counter. The 50 Km bus ride by the direct " Flybus" service from Keflavik airport to BSI (Bifreidastod Islands)bus terminal, the main central bus hub in Reykjavik cost me US $ 32 .The longest and costliest bus ride i have experienced between the airport and city center of a city during my travel in home country India and across the Globe.On arrival at the local BSI bus terminus in Reykjavik visited the plush cafeteria adjacent to the bus terminus and a large hot dog cost me US$ 12 and a coke bottle another US $ 4.The total for a common European snack along with a normal coke bottle cost me a grand total of U.S $ 16 .In hindsight McDonalds breakfast in Valletta at just Euro 5 seemed a steal in comparison to Reykjavik cost of "Tourist living".
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| A view of Downtown Reykjavik on a rainy day. During the month of September light drizzles followed by sunshine is a common occurrence.Mostly cloudy skies |
From BSI bus terminus my next hurdle was tracing " Loft Hi Eco Hostel " situated on Bankastraeti and after much inquiry a local gentleman finally gave me directions through a google map . Walked along the picturesque lonely road with beautiful landscaped houses and not a human in sight, everyone travelling by cars or 2 wheelers. Finally passing alongside Hijomskalagardur park reached landmark Reykjavik lake( Tjornin pond) and came across a lady who helped me in final directions.Walked along the main Laekjargata road that finally led to the uphill road to " Loft -Hi Eco Hostel ",my residence on Bankastraeti in prime downtown Reykjavik .
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| Picturesque Apartments style buildings in Downtown Reykjavik.Contemporary modern architecture alongside traditional colourful houses. |
Took the lift to the 4th floor reception cum bar restaurant of this plush hostel.Ms Carolina the receptionist who had a dog named Mostil told me that Check-in was at 1500 hrs.Requested her for a European plug socket to charge my smart phone/power bank and luckily she had a spare socket which was put to use.Whiled away some time in the plush reception/restaurant getting my phone charged and later depositing my luggage in the locker room made my way out of the hostel to explore the vicinity.Headed into the tourism office and after inquiry booked a slot for " Whale Watching " tour with " Special Tours" costing US$ 115 only.These tours are dependent on the weather and only hoped it doesn't rain continuously tomorrow otherwise the whaling boat would not sail into the sea.
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| Picturesque traditional brightly painted corrugated metal clad wooden buildings of Reykjavik. These 19th century houses exist alongside concrete buildings. |
The rain in Reykjavik is similar to the rain i experienced in Dublin, light drizzles,that don't get you completely drenched but a irritation for comfortable walking.At tea time tasted a common donut that cost me only Euro 6.5 which in my home city of Mumbai cost a maximum of approximately U.S $ 1.5 ,unbelievable but true.Met a Canadian tourist Mr Shameel ,a hobbyist cyclist who was on a cycling tour in Iceland and he admitted that Iceland was more expensive than Canada.
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| Beautiful Reykjavik. At Reykjavik lake(Tjornin) with picturesque traditional houses dotting the banks of the lake. |
I have toured the World's most expensive Countries which includes all the Scandinavian countries and according to me Iceland tops the list in cost of living, being the highest for tourists. At 1500 hrs receptionist Ms Carolina officially checked me in to the plush hostel where every lock and door had a push button alphabetical code word for opening ,something i have got accustomed to as a frequent traveller .Was allotted bed " No 5" in " Room 304" situated on the 3rd floor of the building. Excellent accommodation akin to a plush hotel with 3 double beds to a room and hence a total of 6 guests. Weather was pleasant and not chill cold. Slept early and woke up at 2100 hrs to the sound of live music being played above in the reception/ restaurant.Different entertainment programs are organized for guests on the fourth floor of the chic hostel restaurant bar cum reception hall.Ambient night temp was 9* C but it was cosy inside " Room 304" in " Loft Hi Eco hostel ".Sleepless jet lag resulted in a good nights 4 hours sleep, the longest time I can sleep continuously at a stretch. So far so good.
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| Reykjavik Old Harbour ( Grandi) |
Wednesday(10/9/2025)Reykjavik :- Today morning the weather was excellent and was hoping the sea would be calm.Unlike Valletta's " St Francis Cafe" there was not a single cheap common local restaurant in Downtown Reykjavik that opens before 0800 hrs. Walked the short distance from hostel to " Special Tours" office in the vicinity of Old Harbour called Grandi which has a cruise terminal called Midbakki. .Skarfabakki Harbour is the other larger cruise terminal of Reykjavik situated at the opposite side of the Old harbour about 4 Km from the city centre .
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| "WHALE SAFARI" in Faxafloi Bay of Reykjavik. There are various types of different types of "Whale Boats" available for tourists. |
Skarfabakki cruise terminal stands as a monument to Iceland’s maritime legacy and its evolution into a modern tourist hub. As the primary cruise terminal of the city the port welcomes countless international visitors.A beautiful cruise ship " Albatross Expeditions" had just arrived at Midbakki cruise terminal of the Old port and cruise passengers were disembarking for sightseeing. Asking directions was guided by locals and admired the unpolluted surroundings and numerous ships, mostly tourist whaling ships parked inside Reykjavik Old Harbour( Grandi).
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| " Whale Sighting Map" |
The nearby Old Harbour ,once the core of the city’s fishing industry, has transitioned into a vibrant cultural quarter called Grandi reflecting how maritime heritage continues to influence local life. Here, old warehouses have been converted into galleries, museums, and eateries, showcasing the city’s ability to honor its past while looking forward to a dynamic future. This blend of old and new at the Old harbour and its surrounding areas exemplifies how history and progress go hand in hand in shaping the cultural tapestry of ReykjavÃk. Was the first tourist to enter the office of " Special Tours"and receive my boarding ticket on submission of the pre- booked ticket.
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| HUMPBACK WHALE SIGHTING IN FAXAFLOI BAY |
| HUMPBACK WHALE BLOWING A MILD VAPOUR OF AIR. |
| FLUKE UP :- The Humpback Whale require extra leverage to push their bodies underwater and hence by lifting their heavy tails they accomplish this deep water dive. |
| PECTORAL FIN SLAPPING OF HUMPBACK WHALE :- Either used to communicate or clean themselves. |
| Lucky to spot this pair of Humpback Whales perform for us tourists of the whale boat " Andrea ". A day to remember. Along with the Hump Back Whales we spotted a Minke Whale and dolphins.Ahoy ! |
Finally it was a total houseful crowd of 55 tourists and most of all a bright sunny morning.We group of tourists finally boarded the whale boat " Andrea" owned by the tour organisers " Special tours" and most of us tourists parked ourselves on the topmost open Upper deck.At 0900 hrs the ship heaved anchor and we set sail to Faxaflói bay , Iceland's largest bay, It is approximately about 60 km long and 90 km wide and situated in south-west Iceland, connecting Reykjanes peninsula to the south and Snæfellsnes peninsula to the north.
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| View of Reykjavik coast from tourist whale boat "Andrea". Plush buildings and the tall structure is Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran(Protestant) church, the tallest structure in Reykjavik. |
The areas surrounding the bay is home to the majority of Iceland's population, with the capital Reykjavik to the south-east and close to 2,30,000 people living in the greater ReykjavÃk area. Our boat tour guide was a young lady who spoke to us over a speaker system and educated us on the different species of Whales seen in Faxafloi bay of Iceland. Akin to a land safari there were a few other tour boats scouting the bay for sighting of whales.We were extremely lucky as there was no drizzle but bright sunshine, a rare occurrence in Iceland and hence we could observe the sea from the open deck.
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| "PUFA" artificial mound artwork created by artist Olof Nordal in 2013 in Reykjavik Old Harbour(Grandi) |
Deep into the bay lady luck smiled on us and a pair of " Humpback Whales" entertained us tourists in a manner which i normally saw in National Geographic or wildlife episodes. Spotted 5 Humpback whales from just 25 meters from the boat as also a Minke Whale and some Dolphins.Among bird species, spotted the Garnet.Our lady guide was very informative over the shipboard intercom system from her vantage point above the ships bridge.As for me, a hard core ex- sailor made my way to the Fauxhull of the ship as did a few other tourists to get the best views .We finally returned back and at the harbour mouth in the Grandi area spotted a unique spherical grass mound called Þúfa (th-oo-fha), meaning the Tussock which was created by artist Ólöf Nordal in 2013. The 8m-tall grassy mound was constructed out of 4500 tons of gravel and is one of the biggest artworks ever made in Iceland. It's crowned by the type of hut that's used to make harðfiskur (dried fish) in Iceland.Finally as scheduled at 1200 hrs we docked in Reykjavik Old Harbour,everyone satisfied with this indescribable wildlife viewing of the sea.Whale Safari is a thriving tourist Industry in Iceland and there are numerous tourist companies along the Old harbour offering " Whale Safari".Very similar to wild life land safaris in National parks , only difference is instead of jeeps you have various different boats scouting the bay for Whale sightings. WHALE MEAT IS CONSUMED IN ICELAND AS ALSO IN JAPAN AND NORWAY. In 2017, the whale sanctuary line in Faxaflói bay was thankfully expanded.
This means that no whaling can take place in the eastern part of Faxaflói Bay, from Garðskagaviti lighthouse on Reykjanes peninsula, to Skógarnes headland on Snæfellsnes peninsula. Captain Ahab and " Moby Dick" are a reality in 2025 ,but, not as hunter and prey but as Ship Navigating guide and Celebrity Whales. I forced myself to be on a diet and lunch was canned sardines/ bread and a banana purchased from a grocery store,more expensive than common supermarkets in Europe.Lunch was in the excellent " Dining/ Kitchen" on the 4th floor of " Loft Hi " hostel situated in a corner of the plush reception cum lounge room.
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| Came across this lone heavyweight Ducati bike parked alongside Laugavegur street, the plushest shopping and partying street in Reykjavik. |
Later in the afternoon walked the short distance from the hostel to the tourist office and booked the " Golden Circle Tour" for Saturday costing US $ 103. Readers of my travelogues should know by now that I spend a fortune on sightseeing a country or city as also indulging in extreme adventure sports.These indulgences at times cost a fortune besides the risk to personal safety although staying in the cheapest available accommodation which is " Dormitory accommodation" in plush hostels and on very few occasions hotels.Besides the thrift angle, I love Dormitory lifestyle which is different from isolation lifestyle of hotels, especially for a " Solo traveller".
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| "Canned Sardines/Bread" my staple diet in Reykjavik. First time in my travels used a hostel kitchen for cooking. |
Strolled along Laugavegur street which is a extension of Bankastraeti and the weather changed abruptly from bright sunshine in the morning to a drizzle past 1630 hrs.We were really lucky to have bright sunshine while whale watching in the morning.My weather gamble paid dividends.Now my last weather gamble in Iceland was hoping to see the Aurora Boeureaulis ( Northern Lights) and for that a bright cloudless night is the normal weather condition which since my arrival yesterday looks like a " No - Show".After ages, thanks to the unbelievable high cost of restaurant dining for tourists in Reykjavik that i prepared my own meals in the hostel and dinner was cheese sandwiches with chocolate purchased at Valletta airport.Hostel had a excellent well maintained kitchen cum dining hall.Most of the guests were young and cooking is normal in majority of hostels across the Globe.The plush "First World Kitchen" cum dining saloon of Loft-hi hostel at times resembled a private Michelin restaurant. A home away from home , hostel living educates a youngster regarding independent and self reliant living.
Friday(11/9/2025) Reykjavik:- A early morning breakfast at 0600 hrs of toast/ cheese/ coffee at the hostel guest kitchen/ dining hall.No rain although cloudy skies but it's safer cracking a slot machine then predicting Reykjavik and Iceland's weather forecast.At 0930 hrs made my way to Parliament House, a 15 minutes walk from Loft Hi hostel, the rendezvous for the " Reykjavik Free Walking Tour". Strolled in the vicinity of the Reykjavik pond that has swans gulls and various other birds habituated to being fed by tourists.
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| Reykjavik Cathedral(Domkirkjan) is seat of the Bishop of Iceland located in Austurvollur in close proximity to Parliament Building. |
Spotted a Asian gentleman and mistaking him to be a Indian struck a conversation with Mr Shahzwr.Ajmal who was of Pakistan origin and a professor in a college in Reykjavik. During my travels have come across many Pakistani travellers and Mr Ajmal from Lahore explained me a little of the culture of Iceland as he was in the country since many years.When i told him i met the Prime Minister of Malta he told me it was no big deal in Iceland to see the Prime Minister or President just mingle with common people in public places without a entourage of bodyguards unlike politicians of his country Pakistan as well as my country India . Finally at 1030 hrs a large crowd of tourists assembled in front of Parliament House and came across a elderly Gujarati couple originally from Tanzania and now citizens of England.Our " Free Tour .com" guide Mr Nori presented himself and standing in front of the statue of Jón Sigurðsson (1811 – 1879) ,the leader of Iceland's Independence struggle from Danish rule explained us the brief history of Iceland.The walking tour began from Parliament House which stands on Austurvöllur square and was built in 1880–81.Austurvöllur is ReykjavÃk's oldest public park and has always been a popular gathering place.There has been a tradition of protests taking place in Austurvöllur since it is close to Parliament House.Encircling Austurvöllur square are four streets lined with excellent restaurants, the "American Bar", and "English Pub" . These eateries are particularly enjoyable during summer when outdoor seating is available.Hotel Borg, the most popular 5-star hotel for celebrities is situated on the perimeter boundary of Austurvollur Square with Iceland Parliament hotel on its opposite side.
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| Ingolfur Square with its 2 commemorative Stone Pillars situated in front of landmark Center Hotels. |
I was amazed as there were no guards stationed outside this historic edifice nor any external indications that this was one of the most important buildings in Iceland.If the President of Iceland just walked past us we wouldn't know his identity for the simple reason that there was absolutely no security.Next to the Parliament House is the Cathedral of Reykjavik(Domkirkjan) which was consecrated on 1796 and the first building to be built with the fact that Reykjavik was to be the Capital of Iceland.Every year each session of parliament has begun with a Mass at the Reykjavik cathedral, and from there the dean of the cathedral leads the members of parliament to the parliament house.Mr Nori told us that Lutheran christianity was the major religion with Catholicism slowly increasing within the population.Our next stop was through Iceland's oldest street called Adaelstreti( Main Street) which had historic houses of the wealthy Merchants. Next stop was at Ingolfur Square which has 2 stone pillars over 3 meters in height in front of Center Hotels which is a memorial in downtown Reykjavik, commemorating the first permanent Norse settlers of Iceland.In the vicinity of this square is the famous " Hot Dog Stand" of Iceland.We next walked to Arnarhol hill which has the statue of Ingólfur Arnarson who is commonly recognized as the first permanent Norse settler of Iceland, together with his wife and foster brother. According to tradition, they settled in ReykjavÃk in 874 AD to be the first permanent settler of Iceland, arriving around 870 AD. The statue, created by sculptor Einar Jónsson, was unveiled in 1924 and stands on Arnarhóll hill where Ingólfur is believed to have built his residence showing him holding a spear, linked to Icelandic Sagas.
From the top of Arnarhóll hill the views of Reykjavik are excellent, most prominent being the Harpa Concert Hall .Next to Harpa concert Hall is the unique new bank headquarters of Landsbankinn, designed by C.F. Møller architects and completed in 2023. The building design is inspired by volcanic basalt, rock layers, and cave-like atmospheres and serves as a modern landmark in the East Harbour area, connecting with the city's historic center and nature.Next stop was at Stjórnarráðshúsið (The Government House) which is a stately home located on Lækjargata and houses the Prime Minister's office.We were shown Rainbow street just adjacent to Loft Hi hostel on Bankastraeti street, one of the two plushest shopping streets in Reykjavik with the other being Laugavegur street.And i was residing just a few meters from both the plushest happening streets in Iceland with " Loft Hi Hostel" voted the best hostel in Iceland.From Rainbow street we passed Menntaskólinn à ReykjavÃk, one of the oldest educational institutions in Iceland, with roots tracing back to the 11th century, making it a significant historical landmark. The current building, a distinctive white structure with a dark roof, was completed in 1846 and is a well-known example of Icelandic architecture. The school has played a crucial role in Icelandic education and culture, educating many notable figures in the country's history. Our last stop was City Hall situated next to Reykjavik pond.There is a unique statue near Reykjavik pond called the " Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat". Created by artist Magnús Tómasson in 1994, it depicts a man with a briefcase with his head and upper torso replaced by a large slab of Icelandic volcanic basalt.The statue serves as both a satirical as well as a thoughtful tribute to the country's anonymous civil servants.
The pond freezes completely during winter and a small section of the pond is pumped and filled with natural warm geyser water for survival of the aquatic birds.At City Hall spotted a huge group tour consisting of Indian tourists as group tours to Iceland is regularly advertised on all social media sites.Group tours are cheaper if you travel as a couple or with a partner but your freedom of self exploring sightseeing locales or planning your own travel itinerary is non existent and hence yours truly "Digital Solo Nomad" avoids total package group tours . After thanking Mr Nori tipped him for his services as nothing in life is free and everyone has to earn a living.Remember these so called " Free Walking Tours" are never actually free and tourists are expected to pay them a minimum amount.
Any foreign city I visit always make it a point to begin my sightseeing of the city with any of the " Free Walking Tour " groups.Book in advance as I had booked from my home city of Mumbai as these tours are always " Sold Out".Our room had one lady tourist from Kazakhstan while the rest of the guests stayed for just a day .Spacious and warm with a self contained clean toilet bathe.Excellent rooftop restaurant and situated in the heart of Reykjavik.Most important is the hostel reception room where they have a set of good discarded clothes and footwear left by previous guests which could be used free of charge by any guests.
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| Tollhusid( Custom House) building near Reykjavik Old Harbour at Tryggvagata 19.Enormous Mosaic Mural on side of the building depicting scenes of city's harbour. |
Normally tourists in Iceland hire warm clothing as it is too heavy for air travel and unless living in a cold country useless after visiting Iceland.Same was my planned itinerary for Reykjavik and hence took a pair of heavy ice shoes and a warm pullover from the discarded clothing also putting my warm tropical discarded clothes in the rack for someone else to use in a warm country or get a idea of the iconic rare tropical Indian fashion," The Kurta".In the dining room / Kitchen there was a lot of packaged fresh food products for free which are leftovers by hostel guests.Excellent and the first time I have come across such charity in a hostel during my travels in home country India as well as across the Globe.Nothing is wasted in " Loft Hi " hostel with even the garbage recycled and exported in a different form ! Travel educates. These are some of the reasons for " Loft Hi" hostel being voted the best hostel in Iceland by guests.
Friday (12/9/2025) Reykjavik:- As usual a early morning breakfast of ham sandwiches with coffee while listening to nostalgic English music and admiring the view from the fourth floor of " Loft Hi " hostel.Yesterday having done the walking tour of Downtown Reykjavik looking out of the gallery viewpoint from the fourth floor of our kitchen/ dining hall to my disbelief realized that Iceland Prime Minister's office building was just in front of " Loft Hi" hostel facing the main Laekjargata road. In the 20th century the 1972 Boris Spassky vs. Bobby Fischer chess match, dubbed "The Match of the Century," is widely credited with putting Reykjavik and Iceland on the world map. The event that took place at the peak of the " COLD WAR" between the former U.S.S.R and the U.S.A garnered massive international attention, turning the World Chess Championship into a global spectacle and highlighting the city on the world stage.Much later Iceland granted Bobby Fischer citizenship as a thank you for this publicity and in 2008 he died in Reykjavik. Today would be the day of my own Solo travel within Downtown Reykjavik. The weather was excellent,sunshine with no sign of the cloudy skies and drizzling rain.Walked down familiar Bankastraeti and further down towards Rainbow Street (Skolavoroustigur) , the street empty in the morning.Came across a beautiful jet black semi stray cat with thick fur and well fed.Tracked the cat which went into a cafe and then jumped over a wall, a replica of a black panther.Walked down Rainbow street finally reaching the landmark building in Reykjavik and Iceland, the Lutheran Protestant church Hallgrimskirkja . At 74.5 metres (244 ft) tall, it is the largest church in Iceland and second tallest building in the country.Has a distinctively curved spire and side wings and has been described as having become an important symbol for Iceland's national identity since its completion in 1986.The church is named after the Icelandic poet and cleric HallgrÃmur Pétursson (1614–1674), author of the " Passion Hymns". In front of Iceland’s largest church is a statue of Icelandic Viking Leifur EirÃksson. He was the first European to set foot on the North American continent around 1000 AD. The Icelandic sagas suggest that Leifur found North America 500 years before Christopher Columbus did. The impressive statue was a gift from the United States on the 1000th anniversary of the founding of the Alþingi Parliament in 1930.I was early as the opening hours of the church was 1000 hrs to 1700 hrs.From Hallgrimskirkja Church walked back down Rainbow street past Bankastraeti onto main Laugavegur street and walked straight towards the sea coast in search of the " Sun Voyager" sculpture.
On arriving at Reykjavik seaface Saebraut road was amazed seeing the skyline dotted with tall modern buildings. On arriving at the iconic " Sun Voyager " sculpture came across Gujarati tourists travelling with " Flamingo Tours" of Ahmedabad in India.A real large group of tourists and Iceland has become a latest popular tourist destination for group tours from India.
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| "Sun Voyager Sculpture"by Jon Gunnar Amason. Located next to Seabrat road. |
Also came across a American couple who drove across entire Iceland.Finally after a few photographs walked towards Harpa Concert Hall and Convention centre.Made my way towards the sailboats parked in the harbour and spotting a loan young Asian tourist struck a conversation with Pakistani origin American tourist Mr Eaza from Texas. First time spoke in Hindi during this tour and we both had a long conversation on travel barring politics.Eaza was for just a day in Reykjavik on his way to Copenhagen and was a avid traveller.
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| "Penis Museum" in Reykjavik. The one and only "PENIS MUSEUM" in the World. Singles,Couples,Females, males all visit the educative museum. |
Finally from Harpa Concert Hall locale searched for the Icelandic Phallological museum in simple words known as the " Penis Museum". Walked past the unique Landsbankinn bank building and seeing its construction from close quarters was akin to marvelling at the construction of the pyramids of Egypt.Something unique.I was embarrassed asking a woman for directions to the " Penis Museum" and finally with great difficulty a local.man guided me to the museum which I had overlooked having walked past it as it didn't boldly advertise it's presence from the exterior, just a small signboard.Entrance to the underground museum was US $ 23 and the crowd consisted of couples and a majority were women.The Icelandic Phallological ( Penis) Museum houses the world's largest display of penises and penile parts. The collection holds well over 300 penises from more than 100 species of mammal. The museum also holds 22 imagined penises from creatures and peoples of Icelandic folklore.A study , display and explanation of the penis of various different animals and display of the largest penises in the animal kingdom which belonged to Whales.In the human penis section it was a below the belt knock our exhibition. Unbelievable that a woman Cynthia Dorothy Albritton , better known by the pseudonym " Cynthia Plaster Caster", an American visual artist and self-described "recovering groupie" gained celebrity status for creating plaster casts of celebrities' erect penises.Yes, a woman handling men's penises to create plaster exhibits .Anyone blushing ! Ms Albritton began her career in 1968 by casting penises of rock musicians and later expanded her subjects to include filmmakers and other types of artists, eventually amassing a collection of over 70 plaster penises.
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| Blue Whale has largest penis in the Animal Kingdom |
In 2000, she began casting female artist's breasts.Her most famous penis casting was of Rock legend guitarist Jimi Hendrix.Truth is stranger than fiction.
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| Casting of Penis of Rock Star Jimi Hendrix. The most famous human penis casting akin to a work of art. |
I spent almost 2 hrs in the Penis Museum, something fascinating and no comparison to vulgar pornography photographs of penises as seen in " Blue films".Real educative and a total different branch of study.I walked out of the " Penis museum" utterly amazed at what I saw and read and it was akin to doing half a crash course on Sexology. Travel educates.A short walk to the right side of the Icelandic Phallological museum on Tryggvagata Street is Iceland's famous hot dog franchisee , Bæjarins beztu hot dog stand .
Baejarins Beztu has nine locations in Iceland, with seven stands in Greater Reykjavik Area and two in Keflavik. The main shop lies on Tryggvagata Street and there was a long queue.
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| Unique beautiful house /shop in Downtown Reykjavik. |
A very ordinary looking shop for a brand name in Icelandic street food.Cost of a hotdog was US$ 7, cheap considering cost of living in Reykjavik. I have tasted hotdogs in its country of origin ,Germany and this Icelandic hotdogs was something different,a innovation ,absolutely delicious and crunchy.The secret ingredient formulae consists of raw and fried onions, a sweet mustard called pylsusinnep, ketchup, plus a mayo-and-herb-based sauce called remoulade.This hotdog stand is World famous , drawing locals, tourists, and even celebrities like former U.S. President Bill Clinton, Kim Kardashian, and Gordon Ramsay. The " ICELANDIC HOTDOG" of Baejarins Beztu would now be my daily food until my stay in Reykjavik.Back at the hostel relaxed and later in the evening walked down towards the end of Laugavegur street, entering a few shops and just drifting into a side street stumbled upon plush " Bastard ,Brew and Food" restaurant, the first time at my young age to have stumbled upon a popular restaurant with this name.
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| A plush wellness studio for women in Reykjavik |
Purchased some tin food for dinner and breakfast.Have brushed up my cooking skills in the kitchen preparing my own food, also meeting new acquaintances,a first during my stay in hostels across the Globe.Lots of raw free food products available for cooking in the kitchen ,leftover products of guests and utilized but never wasted,something i learnt visiting First World Country's. Lots of young American tourists in " Loft Hi " hostel and came across nurse Emily from North Carolina who told me that there were a lot of Indians residing near her locality in North Carolina,majority Information technology employees.There are direct 6 to 8 hrs flight's from U.S.A to Reykjavik." Loft Hi" hostel is situated in the hippest clubbing locality of Reykjavik and well past midnight the sound of live music and people walking and talking is heard in the room.Liveliest of lively partying hub of Iceland let alone Reykjavik.
Saturday (13/9/2025) Reykjavik:- Breakfast as usual in the dining hall/ Kitchen while listening to classic artists of my generation.Love the view from the 4th floor of " Loft Hi " hostel.Today was the day of the " Golden Circle group tour" .Early morning ambient temperature was 6* C ,cold with wind blowing and cloudy overhead sky.At 0830 hrs walked out of the hostel onto Bankastraeti and turned left into Ingolfstraetti and crossing the next road reached bus stop N0 6 where a crowd of tourists had already gathered. Tourism is Iceland's largest Industry and it shows in the clockwork precision of professional conduction of tours by numerous tour companies.
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| Trail leading to the lake of Kerid Crater. |
Buses and Sprint vans arrived at bus Stop N0 6 collecting their respective tourists visiting different tour destinations with different tour companies.Finally at 0900 hrs our tour company bus " Bus Travel Iceland" arrived and the tour guide Jessica called out respective tourist names and we boarded the bus.On the way tourists from other hotels were picked up and got to view some of the plushest hotels including the Hilton hotel.But none of these 5- Star hotels could beat " Loft Hi " hostel regarding location in Reykjavik .
Finally at 0930 we stopped at a common stop where other tourist buses had parked and a final allotment of tourists from our bus to various other buses was finalized and they shifted to their respective buses to their onward tour destination.
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| Scenic Countryside of Iceland. |
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| At Gullfoss Waterfalls |
The rim is unfenced and slopes slippery with loose Volcanic red mud.Caution is required while taking photography. Kerid Crater Lake depth water level fluctuates between 7 and 14 meters (23-46 ft), depending on the weather conditions. The wind at the locale was beyond imagination and i was scared of my smart phone flying away with the wind.At 1120 hrs we departed from Kerid Crater for Gullfoss Waterfalls located in the canyon of the HvÃtá river in southwest Iceland. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the country.At 1215 hrs we reached Gullfoss Waterfalls and on alighting from the bus the velocity of the cold wind was frightening.The sight of the waterfall was amazing as it cascaded down the mountain rocks.The average amount of water running down the waterfall is 141 cubic metres (5,000 cu ft) per second in the summer and 80 cubic metres (2,800 cu ft) per second in the winter. The highest flood measured was 2,000 cubic metres (71,000 cu ft) per second.During the first half of the 20th century and some years into the late 20th century, there was much speculation about using Gullfoss to generate electricity. During this period, the waterfall was rented indirectly by its owners, Tómas Tómasson and Halldór Halldórsson, to foreign investors. However, the investors' attempts were unsuccessful, partly due to lack of money.
SigrÃður Tómasdóttir, daughter of the co-owner, is popularly credited with saving the waterfall from exploitation, advocating for legal protections against foreign control of it and reportedly threatening to throw herself down the falls.
A stone memorial above the falls depicts her profile.The waterfall was later sold to the Icelandic government and was made a permanent conservation site in 1979.
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| At Geysir STROKKUR in Haukadalur.Waiting for the Geysir to erupt into a fountain of steam and hot water. |
It was a unbelievable bright and Sunny day but the mist of the Waterfalls blown by the strong wind made me wet and had to take precaution regarding my camera.At the parking lot for the first time viewed a modified Ford F-Series pickup truck, commonly referred to as a "Super Jeep" in Iceland.Originating in Iceland, the concept of the Super Jeep evolved from the need to traverse the island's harsh conditions and lack of roads, particularly in the highlands and during winter.
These vehicles provide access to remote areas that standard vehicles cannot reach, offering unique opportunities for exploring Iceland's untouched landscapes.This modified vehicle had " Harley Davidson " brand logo and the owner seems to have been a biking enthusiast.
At 1300 hrs we left Gullfoss Waterfalls heading to the Geysir.Golf is very popular among Icelander 's and came across a few golf courses during our drive.Strangely although popular in Iceland on the World stage Iceland golfers have not been prominent players.Enroute we stopped near a horse farm where 3 Icelandic horses were exhibited to tourists.
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| Thingvellir National Park :- View of Eurasian and North American plates splitting. |
Very docile and have thick fur compared to normal horses.They were fed candy by the tourists which they loved.In Iceland there is no livestock diseases and animals from outside are not allowed to be imported into Iceland, beginning from cattle to all other kinds of livestock.A total isolated island country in animal husbandry.Finally at 1315 hrs reached Geysir Geothermal Area in Haukadalur. From the parking area had to cross the road and walk through a laid out pathway passing alongside many geothermal dormant hot springs and mud pots finally arriving at the site of Strokkur, the only active geyser in the vicinity.
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| View of Thingvallavatyn Lake in Thingvellir National Park. Largest Natural lake in Iceland having a surface area of 84 Sq Km and a max depth of 114 meters.Only outflow from the lake is River Sog. |
Strokkur erupts approximately every 5 to 10 minutes, but can vary between 4 and 15 minutes, making it a reliable but not perfectly predictable natural phenomenon. Visitors often experience several eruptions in a short period or may need to wait a bit longer for the next display of hot water shooting into the air.I was lucky and within a span of 10 minutes watched twice with awe the explosive eruptions of the geyser Strokkur shooting scalding hot water high into the air creating an otherworldly spectacle against Iceland’s rugged terrain.Lunch was " Lamb Roast " at " Geyser Glima" restaurant costing US$ 32, excellent but too large a helping for me to finish at one sitting.Parceled half of the food for dinner at the hostel.
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| "Bus Travel Iceland" tour of the "GOLDEN CIRCLE" |
Finally at 1430 hrs after lunch we headed to our last visit of the Golden circle tour , Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that serves as a living testament to Iceland’s rich history and geological significance. We tourists strolled through the very rift valley where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates drift apart, a mesmerizing sight that highlights the dynamic forces shaping our planet.Icelands first Parliament was established in this locale .Lake Þingvallavatn Iceland's largest natural lake, covering an area of about 84 square kilometers is centrally located in Thingvellir National Park. Finally at approximately 1700 hrs was back at home away from home " Loft Hi" hostel.Dinner was the lavish takeaway " Lamb roast" from " Geysir Glima" restaurant. The oldest inhabitant of " Room No 304" was a young lady from Kazakhstan named Sultanate who had arrived before me otherwise it was a musical chairs change of new guests and new beds, mostly U.S.A tourists." Loft Hi " being situated on prime intersection of Rainbow street and Laugavegur street,the entertainment streets of Iceland has party goers traffic until 0200 hrs in the morning,talking loudly and a disturbance to hostel residents..Yes. unbelievable but true.Reykjavik is a late night morning partying Capital city although one of the costliest in the World.
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| Internal view of "Christ the King(Landakotskirkja)" Catholic Cathedral in Reykjavik. |
Sunday (14/9/2025) Reykjavik:- Unpredictable Icelandic weather.From a bright sunny day yesterday to a cloudy morning with droplets of light drizzling rain.At the breakfast table came across a young group of Italian tourists, most tourists are Americans, Australians, Canadians and Italians.Mostly a total Caucasian hostel with a sprinkling of Asian tourists like yours truly.For U.S.A tourists a young lady told me that the airfare from U.S.A to Iceland is cheap although cost of living is more expensive than U.S.A.After breakfast in the mild drizzle walked the long uphill distance to " Christ the King Cathedral(Landakotskirkja)", the Catholic Basilica in Reykjavik. Sunday masses are held in different languages with the English language mass at 1800 hrs.This is the only Catholic church in Iceland and was consecrated on 23 July 1929 ."Christ the King Cathedral(Landakotskirkja)" has a distinctively flat top instead of a standard spire , normal to Catholic church's. Its architect was Guðjón Samúelsson, who also designed HallgrÃmskirkja, a Reykjavik landmark. I never miss the Sunday mass in my home country India or during my travels in foreign Countries if the Church is easily reachable. Visited the church and made my way back to home away from home " Loft Hi " hostel.Decided to observe a Sunday rest day and stroll around Downtown Reykjavik. Later after 1200 hrs the rain stopped and there was bright sunshine, a real surprise.Walked down the familiar route crossing Laekjargata street and decided to do some window shopping entering plush " Nordic Store".A shop having sheepskin fashion accessories and jackets as well as local Icelandic fashion clothing.From " Nordic Store" walked along familiar Austurstraeti street with all the shops now a familiar sight to me and on seeing the entrance signboard " Kolaportid Market " decided to enter the same and on entering was surprised by the size of the that externally seemed a total drab inconsequential market.
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| Inside Kolaportid Market in Reykjavik. Iceland's oldest and largest Flea market open only on Saturday and Sunday throughout the year. |
Kolaportid can be visited on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 AM to 5 PM. Despite its weekend-only hours, it’s the only flea market in Iceland that operates year-round.It sits in the Old Harbour at Reykjavik’s north end. Its central location makes it easy to visit.Opened in 1989 on the grounds of what is now the city’s Central Bank, the market currently occupies a 2,250-square-foot (209-square-meter) space. It's located on the ground floor of Reykjavik’s former customs house, Tollhusid, at Tryggvagata 19. Came across Antique, vintage, and second-hand clothing,vinyl records, books, and home goods as also hand-knit sweaters made from Icelandic wool and hand-crafted jewelry made with Icelandic stones.But what caught my eye was the wildlife products on display.Came across a authentic lion skin with its stuffed head, the first time i had seen such a specimen outside a Natural history museum.Definitely legal otherwise such a wildlife product akin to a prized stolen painting would not be sold in a open market.Trophy hunting is legalized a d this specimen could be of a era when big game hunting was common in Africa.There were lot of whale bone handicrafts on sale including actual skeleton parts of a while as restricted whale hunting is still legal in Iceland.Came across stag trophy's not uncommon in European country's where legal deer hunting with permits is legalized. What finally caught my eye was the pelts of fish, yes fish.For the first time in my life saw " FISH PELTS" and on inquiry the flea seller told me the pelts belonged to the " Spotted Cat fish" which resembled a lighter form of a leopards skin.
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| "Lamb Soup" served in a edible bread bowl at landmark "Icelandic Street Food" restaurant on Laekiargata street in Downtown Reykjavik. If Non-Vegetarian then visiting this restaurant is mandatory. |
The market was crowded and just inquisitiveness made me enter this unique and most interesting bazar of Reykjavik. From Kolaportid decided it was time for lunch and irrespective of cost decided to go local and visit the most popular eateries in Reykjavik. Entered " Icelandic Street Food " restaurant which was the first fast food concept in Iceland with traditional Icelandic food. Icelandic Street Food is a family owned business with recipes made from by the owners Grandmother who makes all their traditional delicacies such as Icelandic Pancakes and marriage cakes." Lamb Soup" is their most famous dish called Kjötsúpa in local language. Cost me US$ 25 and was served along with bread in a large giant size hollow bread instead of a normal bowl.Lamb Soup(Kjötsúpa) typically contains Icelandic lamb, potatoes, carrots, and other root vegetables, along with dried herbs.Extra helpings of bread and Soup are given and if a eater like late wrestler " Andre the giant" then it is a meal enough for the entire day.Travel educates.After lunch decided to visit Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral and walking along Rainbow street ( Skolavoroustigur) finally reached Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral. Entered the Lutheran Cathedral(Protestant ) and unlike " Christ the King" Catholic Basilica there were no statues inside the church which was bare except for the altar and pulpit with a statue of Jesus Christ near the entrance of the church.The church is known for its pipe organ having 5275 pipes.After visiting the church next entered the church office and purchased a ticket to the church tower costing US$ 12 .
The lift took us to floor N0 8, the viewing deck of the church tower bell.The views of Reykjavik was excellent and luckily no rain but sunshine.
As I had a toured most of Downtown Reykjavik during long walks could identify the topographical locations from the second tallest building in Iceland .Got to view the Perlan situated on Reykjavik's highest hill as also Reykjavik's domestic airport seeing planes taking off from the runway.The Tower bells chime at every quarter of an hour not manually unlike in most Catholic churches but electronically. To my good fortune got to see a rainbow formation and even though I might not see the " Northern Lights" in Iceland would at least have the consolation of seeing a Rainbow formation from the bell tower of Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral.
NOTE : ABOVE VIDEO IS ELECTRONIC CHIMING OF HALLGRIMSKIRKJA CHURCH BELLS.
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| View of the beautiful houses of Reykjavik from the viewing gallery of Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral. The tallest structure in Reykjavik. |
Spent almost one and a half hour on the church tower viewing platform and advice first time tourists to Reykjavik to first either do a " Reykjavik Guided Walking Tour" or visit the viewing tower of Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral to get a idea of the city's topographical layout.Finally made my exit from Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral and walked down towards " Loft Hi" hostel as also dropping in at the travel office to find out if weather conditions were ripe for sighting the " Northern Lights".
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| Didn't get to sight the "NORTHERN LIGHTS" but lucky to sight the rare "RAINBOW" from Hallgrimskirkja Tower. |
Seems sighting of " Northern Lights" is never guaranteed as advertised by professional tour groups even during peak winter season which has long nights.Visited " Kronan" supermarket to purchase edible products.Purchased 6 eggs ,1 sardine can ,1 yogurt,1 loaf white bread 3 butter cubes and 1 Equador banana with the total amounting to US $ 13 .No wonder almost most hostel guests cook in the kitchen akin to running a restaurant.Cost of essential food items purchased from supermarkets is cheap in comparison to wages earned by average Icelanders.This was the first time in my " Solo Travels" that I took up to preparing my own breakfast or dinner in a hostel or hotel.A astonishing fact about Iceland is that all the hot water generated for domestic use is from the Country's Natural thermal spring geysers which has therapeutic value.I won't be surprised if many tourists visit Iceland just for bathing in its natural spring water.
Monday(15/9/2025) Reykjavik:- As usual breakfast on the 4th floor kitchen/ Dining hall and for the first time cooked during my stay in a hostel.Breakfast was fried eggs/ toast with coffee.Majority of the hostels I have lived in have had excellent kitchens for its guests as most hostel guests are budget tourists,young or aged.After breakfast as usual walked downhill out of the hostel past main road Laekjargata and came across a beautiful small greenhouse garden ,temporary summer gardens by local Icelanders .Came across two young Filipino ladies Ms Antoinette and Ms Ruvani employed long time residents of Reykjavik canvassing for " Jehovah Witness " church.
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| Beluga(White Whale) Whale at "Whales of Iceland " museum. |
They told me that from mid- December upto March entire Reykjavik would be a carpet of Ice.My destination was " Special Tours " office to inquire about the " Whales of Iceland " museum location and concession ticket booking.Entry ticket at a discount was U.S $ 18 and I also downloaded the whale watching tour photo's. From " Special Tours" office it was a short walk past Old Port Drydocks which had 3 small ships under repairs bringing back memories of my " Marine Engineering Apprenticeship " years in Mazagon Dock Shipyard in Mumbai.Life had travelled a full circle.
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| "North Atlantic Right Whale":- Most endangered among the Baleen whales(Toothless Whales) |
Also spotted unique mechanical artwork with cycles fabricated from chain blocks kept standing,akin to being on a cycle stand. Ingenuity from simple scrap material , definitely by one or some of the shipyard employees.The " Whales of Iceland " museum address is Fiskislóð 23-25, 101 ReykjavÃk and is open from 1000 hrs to 1700 hrs. At 1015 hrs I was inside this huge museum having life size model exhibits of 25 different whale species.Downloaded the audio guide through the QR( Quick Response) Code on my phone and began my self guided tour of this unique whale museum, the largest such museum in Europe.
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| "BLUE WHALE":- Largest animal on Planet Earth. |
All the exhibits were to scale of their living mirror images and even standing next to a porpoise or dolphin as a human felt miniscule in size.There is a in house theatre in the museum where documentaries are screened .I first attended the 1120 hrs documentary titled " Sonic Sea" which highlighted the damage caused by excessive shipping traffic and submarine sonar signals in the indirect decimation of whale populations.On any given day there are approximately 60,000 ships sailing in different parts of the Ocean on Planet Earth .
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| In a Greenhouse garden facing Laekjargata street. During summer months such temporary gardens are created. |
I myself was employed on sailing ships between 1983-2006 but have never ever spotted a whale during my sea voyages in different seas and oceans across the Globe.Rock Star Sting( Gordon.Matthew Thomas Sumner) was actively involved in voicing his views as also contributing a theme song for this documentary.A celebrity to the cause of Whale conservation.The Second documentary was at 1230 hrs titled " Whale Wisdom" which filmed true life encounters of Whales using their intelligence to steal farmed fish from fisherman's sea ponds.Having seen a pair of Humpback Whales, a minke whale and dolphins during our whale watching tour was totally engrossed in reading about each exhibit also surprised that there were this many Whale species.Saw the short film explanations on the amazing ability of the Sperm Whale to dive to unimaginable depths as well as the Orca's pod system of hunting and unique language proving the intelligence of the whale species .Spent almost 4 hours in this museum and it was akin to studying a course on Whales.Finally made my exit back to the hostel for a very late lunch.Majority guests cooking in the kitchen / Dining hall were ladies and on casual conversation was surprised that Australian digital nomad Ms Jasmine was a former " Dive Instructor" , something I hope to relearn having failed my diving course in Tulamben in Bali .In the evening walked towards Kronan supermarket and on the way entered a second hand shop which sold excellent second hand clothes and other products and on inquiring the prices was taken aback as the cost was akin to purchasing brand new products .As mentioned, considering local Icelandic wages consumable products purchased and cooked lowers cost of living in Iceland.
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| High cost of living in Reykjavik. Tried my hand at basic cooking in the plush 5-star style kitchen cum dining hall. "LOFT HI" Hostel rocks. |
Tuesday (16/9/2025) Reykjavik:- As usual it was a early morning breakfast and for the first time cooked in a hostel during my " SOLO TRAVELS" across the Globe.Breakfast was " Bacon/ Bread/ Butter" with coffee.At hostels you meet different tourists from different countries and me Dr Mrs Ying.Keo ,a Gynaecologist from Malaysia on a short holiday in Reykjavik. In hostel living during my travels I have come across co- travellers from various professions ,nationalities,religions, sex's and age groups all co - existing harmoniously.In fact I could author a book on hostel experiences, such is the uniqueness of hostels in comparison to average hotels or the plush 5- Star hotels.Having stayed in all types of accommodations beginning from cargo ship's cabins to 5- Star and 3 Star hotels my sincere advice to travellers is experience " HOSTEL LIFESTYLE AND LIVING" at least once in your lifetime even if accustomed to 5- Star style hotel luxury.Hostels is something different.Mostly " Digital Nomads" used "Loft Hi" hostel's excellent restaurant cum bar on the 4th floor for conducting their remote business.Any millionaires or billionaires among these young "Digital Nomads" ? Very common in all hostels in " First World Countries " , a invention of 21st century digital technology.I am also a " Digital Nomad" and hence can travel without physically attending any formal office.From " Marine Engineer" to " Digital Nomad" has been a long journey .
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| First World Mechanical Cleaning /Repairing of the glass windows of a house/shop on Laugavegur street. |
Later walked along Laugavegur street towards the tourist office.Stepped into the office and inquired regarding night drives in search of sighting the Aurora Borealis(Northern Lights) and the answer was affirmative with tour charges ranging from U.S $ 180 to US$ 210.It was akin to wildlife safari sighting trip with no guarantee of sighting but a clause to purchasing the ticket was that if the Aurora was not sighted then the tourists would get a free sighting trip the next day or some other day or anytime within 3 years of purchasing the ticket.
No wonder tourism is booming in Iceland.As I was leaving tomorrow did not want to gamble on a "Northern Lights" sighting as the gamble of the whale sighting was beyond expectation, a grand success.As a "Gambler/Speculator" always hedge your bets to avoid disappointment, ruin or banruptcy.Walked further along Laugavegur street, the weather bright and Sunny.
On reaching the intersection of Barronstigur street asked for directions to Sundhöll ReykjavÃkur swimming pool It is the oldest purpose built indoor swimming pool in ReykjavÃk and was designed by the Icelandic architect Guðjón Samúelsson and opened in 1937 at BarónsstÃgur, close to the elementary school Austurbæjarskóli.Entered the swimming pool complex and on inquiry was told admission was approx U.S$ 11 ,very cheap by Icelandic cost of living standards.The main pool was only 25 meters in length and photography not permitted.
In 2015 during my European travels had a out of World experience at the Szechenyi thermal Baths in Budapest ,one of the best and largest spa baths in Europe and hence decided to avoid Sundhöll ReykjavÃkur as the main pool was too small and thermal bathe swimming not a mystery to me.Besides, for therapeutic reason all the hot water in Iceland is natural mineral thermal water and hence the daily hot water bath in " Loft Hi" hostel is hot geo thermal water.Icelanders are real lucky to enjoy this natural therapy free of cost.My advice to budget tourists wanting to experience " THERMAL BATH SWIMMING" in Reykjavik is please visit " Sundhöll ReykjavÃkur swimming pool.On my walk back down Laugavegur street came across a mysterious free roaming cat sitting on the footpath of Laugavegur street as if it owned a square foot of the costliest shopping real estate in Reykjavik.
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| Pretty and cute "Dubliner Pub" in Downtown Reykjavik. Summer weather of Reykjavik very much mirror's the weather of Dublin. |
What caught my immediate attention was a circular patch above it's left eye akin to a bullet penetrative injury or a operation of its scalp.Very docile and allowed me a photograph with it.Just strolled around Downtown Reykjavik visiting plush shops and while passing alongside Reykjavik Pond made a film shoot feeding the Whooper swans,Lesser black backed gulls and Gray lag goose as also a few pigeons.This part of the pond in close proximity to the City Hall is the main congregation point for these aquatic birds awaiting tourists to feed them.Very similar to Lake Zurich in Switzerland.
There is a local bus terminal near the pond and inquiring the bus " N0 55" to Reykjavik airport struck a conversation with young pharmacist Mr Avinash from Hyderabad in India employed in Reykjavik.Entered the Cathedral of Reykjavik situated next to the pond which was open to devotees , typical simple Lutheran church( Protestant)decor inside.The Cathedral is the seat of the Bishop of Iceland.From the Cathedral walked the short distance to landmark Harpa Concert Hall and entered this unique designed glass edifice.All concert halls have grandeur and so also Harpa concert Hall which has a plush restaurant and shopping arcade.From Harpa concert Hall walked back to home away from home " Loft Hi" hostel and had my lunch.
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| Entrance to Reykjavik City Hall situated alongside Reykjavik Lake.Notice the seagulls perched along the bridge railings. |
Later in the evening strolled around Laugavegur street and visited various Boutique shops and in one shop " Odin's Raven Workshop" for the first time came across a stuffed Raven as well as a Ravens head being sold along with other artifacts .The Raven is the national bird of Iceland.The " Ravens Head" taxidermy mounting cost US $ 213 only.There are no crows in Iceland but Ravens do exist and is the National bird of Iceland.In Norse mythology, the ravens Huginn (Thought) and Muninn (Mind) served the god Odin, acting as his eyes and ears and symbolizing wisdom.
I had not visited a single pub in Reykjavik decided to visit the exotic " Magic Ice Bar " situated on Laugavegur street opposite the tourism office.Entrance was U.S $ 41 and the ice igloo chamber was a floor below ground level. " MAGIC ICE BAR" is Iceland's only sub zero ice Bar where temperature is permanently maintained at -5*C.
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| A lone lighted tree alongside Laekjargata street in Reykjavik. Looks awesome at night. |
The ice Bar has over 60 tons of ice and some ice is carved into ice sculptures and carvings of Vikings. You sip on your complimentary drink served to you in a Ice glass.For warmth a oversize poncho and gloves are given.Something exotic and worth a visit for its novelty and beautiful ice carvings.Last of all visited a local pub that was playing live Icelandic classical music.Night came to a end with a visit to plush " Loft Hi" restaurant cum bar cum reception hall on the 4th floor.A few young " Digital Nomads" were busy on their laptops while the rest just soaking in the ambiance .Came across 6 feet + tall heavily built young Mr Kash Patel ,a American from Georgia of Indian origin.Born in U.S.A he was totally Americanized from accent to culture as also looks and on seeing him I never at all presumed that both his parents were pure Gujarati Indians.He was not in the trademark "Patel Motel " Gujarati monopoly business of the American Motel industry but in the real estate business.I will never forget him as he changed my opinion of stereotyping people according to race,religion,nationality or sex as we all have that tendency.Change is permanent and travel educates.
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| Scenic Reykjavik Lake (Tjornin) In winter this entire lake gets frozen and used for winter sports. |
Wednesday(17/9/2025) Departure Reykjavik :- As usual at the early morning breakfast table got into a discussion with young fellow travellers amazed by the exploits of " Dive Instructor" Ms Jasmine who has done over 1000 warm water dives in her career.A elderly guest from Canada had checked into our room for a night and spoke a few words in Hindi language with me ,a thorough traveller who carries approx 30 kgs luggage as backpack. One behind his shoulders and one in front on his chest.He was no young spring chicken and could have been in his 60's, a model for the ultimate in rugged back packing.Travel Educates. At 1030 hrs checked out of the hostel and requested Elin the hostel manager to keep my backpack in the baggage room . Bright and Sunny morning, unpredictability of Reykjavik autumn weather.Walked down to the pond and fed the birds leftover bread.From Reykjavik pond walked past Parliament building onto Austurvöllur square with restaurants American Bar and the English pub facing the square and a few of their customers seated on chairs drinking their beers. Walked along Tryggvagata Street upto Old Harbour and on the way came across steam mist rising in the air from underground pipes akin to artificial fog machines at film shootings or Rock concerts.Excellent bright sunshine and cool not chill cold weather.Relaxed for some time on a bench at the square in front of " Center Hotels".
Visited " Old Bookstore in Reykjavik " which has been in business since 1914 but shifted into this new building that I visited just 3 months ago.Situated next to " Haspenna Casino Slots" and in close proximity to the hot dog stand.Stood in queue for the famous hotdog and later walked back down to Laugavegur street. Visited Alafoss shop that had the best fur garments and woollen sweaters ,a shop dealing in expensive garments.Visited a souvenir shop where the owner had a beautiful taxidermy specimen of a Raven.He told me Ravens were quite common in Reykjavik but I had never ever seen one during my stay in Reykjavik. Visited the " Nordic market" shop dealing in all souvenirs and handicrafts pertaining to Iceland.Stopped at " The Bastard's" restaurant with a few of their prime dishes named starting with the word " Bastard". Truth is stranger than fiction. Saw a gentleman walking in my direction along with his cat on his shoulder.Immediately struck a conversation with Britisher originally from Liverpool Mr Andrew David Jonuson who goes under the name of Andrew Kettir and now living in Reykjavik.Mr Andrew had worked in Chennai and Bangalore in the I.T industry and also knew a few words of Hindi language.His cat' s name was " Paddington" and we became friends on FB with Mr Andrew also joining our group " Mumbai Cat Club" on FB.He later
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| "OLD BOOKSTORE IN REYKJAVIK".In continuous business since 1914 but shifted to this new building in 2025. Excellent paperback books by Icelandic authors. |
Whichever country or city I visit make it a point to taste their National dish and in Iceland it is " Hákarl, or Icelandic fermented shark". This is a traditional dish made from Greenland shark that is cured, fermented, and dried for several months, resulting in a strong ammonia-rich smell and acquired taste. It is considered a national dish and delicacy, historically important for food preservation and now enjoyed during the mid-winter Thorrablot festival and by tourists wanting to connect with Icelandic roots. While the scent is ammonia smell the taste was akin to eating a piece of raw fish which I washed down with a shot of BrennivÃn liquor( Local brewed Icelandic Liquor). Cost is akin to eating a bit of a precious metal like gold,U.S $ 17 only for the tiny morsel.
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| A last goodbye to Reykjavik Old Harbour(Grandi) |
Normally I never eat Shark to conserve the species but in Iceland had to taste their National dish.The Brennivin liquor was very intoxicating for the quantity served.After one of the costliest lunch per Capita of food served headed back to the hostel and relaxed in the restaurant.At 1730 hrs said goodbye to " Loft Hi " hostel and walked the short distance to Croner supermarket and purchased 2 bananas, a tin of sardines and 2 buns costing U.S $ 6, my actual lunch cum dinner before the late night flight to Warsaw.From the supermarket walked the straight road past the pond and luckily came across a lady cyclist for guidance to the " B S I" bus terminus. In Reykjavik on streets outside the main city centre it is difficult to find pedestrians as everyone is in a 4-wheel vehicle or riding a 2- wheeler and hence seeking a person to ask for directions is next to impossible.It was a straight long walk past Soleyjargata street finally sighting " B S I" bus terminus in the distance.On entering the plush bus terminus was told by the ticket issuing staff that I had missed the 1800 hrs bus and would now have to board the 2000 hrs bus. Booked the bus ticket costing US $ 32 and had a long relaxation in the bus waiting hall." Flybus " departure was prompt at 2000 hrs and it was a long drive through the barren countryside.
At 2050 hrs reached Keflavik airport and from the bus stop it was a short walk to the departure terminal.Check - in was at 2125 hrs and after collection of boarding pass the security check was a surprise when we were asked to remove our toothpaste.
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| "BSI" bus terminus in Reykjavik.Main city bus terminus. |
Had to reopen my backpack and again repack.At Duty free as usual purchased a pack of cheap Icelandic chocolates ,my addiction. Keflavik airport has a large duty free section and most importantly a section with a paperback bookshop.Boarded Whizz air flight "W62540 " onto seat " 25 D" and departure was prompt at 2355 hrs.
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| Reykjavik to Larnaca via transit at Warsaw. |
Asked a traveller and he told me I was in the Schengen section which was separate and hence had to literally run in the opposite direction towards " Schengen Immigration" where i finally spotted Wizz Air flight " W61551" on the display board along with boarding gate number. It was a long walk towards Gate 2 N.Finally before entering boarding gate passed through immigration and after getting my passport stamped walked towards boarding gate" 2 N".I had not collected my " Boarding Pass" as the Whiz air website was not acknowledging my input data and most importantly had physically arrived when the " Check - In" counter had closed for personal physical check .
Finally at the boarding gate after much discussion had to pay PLN 200 ( Euro25) extra for the issue of my boarding pass.Was allotted " Seat N0 40 F", the last seat on the plane.
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| Main entrance to "LE MAT" hostel in Old Larnaca City. |
After normal immigration formalities made my exit and after a few inquiries boarded the " N0 425 bus" on the main road outside the airport.Bus fare was Euro 2.5 to Apolloniou Kitieos bus stop with the bus departing Larnaka airport at 1200 hrs,filled with tourists .
On arrival at Apolloniou Kitieos the driver informed us tourists and a few of us alighted and from here it was a treasure hunt finding " Le Mat" hostel in the blazing afternoon Sun.Finally providence smiled and feeling thirsty I entered a mini market shop whose owner guided me in the right direction.
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| Shops and restaurants facing Finikoudes Promenade. |
The entrance door of " Le Mat" hostel reminded me of a medieval castle door and on entering this palatial mansion felt I was on the sets of a film shoot based on early 20th century society.When built this mansion must have been a jewel in this historic Old Town of Larnaca.Larnaca Fort and Djami Kebir, or the Great Mosque, an active Muslim mosque having one towering minaret is just a few meters away from " Le Mat" hostel.The Church of Saint Lazarus , a late-9th century church in Larnaca is just walking distance from " Le Mat" hostel.Prime location hostel for Backpackers and budget tourists in Larnaca.
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| "Moussaka", local Greek Cypriot lunch at "Marine Navy 1974" restaurant in Larnaca. |
On entering the palatial mansion Mr Gregory the manager greeted me and after the normal formalities showed me " Room N0 6 " on the first floor having a total of 5 double bed's which amounted to a total of 10 guests .Was allotted bed " A" and the " Digital Nomad" settled down to a new country and new surroundings.After a nice hot water bathe got dressed and as I was hungry since yesterday decided to have a grand local lunch.Walked to Finikoudes seafront and what greeted my eyes soothed my tired jet lag travel.Beautiful beach lined with tourists under umbrellas and the hot shine literally burning hot.Caucasians love this beach weather and hence crowded.A string of plush sea facing restaurants lined the promenade and lunch was Cypriot traditional dish " Moussaka" at plush sea facing " Marine Navy 1974" restaurant.After lunch had a long walk along Finikoudes promenade as also having a external look at the Church of St Lazarus.Was finally back home away from home,palatial 19th century mansion hostel " Le Mat".The mansion has a large open courtyard where two digital nomad tourists were busy on their laptops.Picked up a conversation with Brazilian tourist Mr Fabio who travelled Europe akin to travelling by a local bus.At times airfares by the private European air operators within Europe are unbelievably cheap and for the fine of US$ 58 that I paid a backpack tourist could fly between two European Countries. Yes,unbelievable but true.His next visit was to be to India by the years end.Larnaka's weather is warm and thankfully the hostel room A/ C was functioning.Besides jet lag travel I also had to get accustomed to abrupt change in climate from + 7* C in Reykjavik to + 26* C in Larnaka. Had a decent nights sleep with the room A/ C providing a cool temperature and no mosquitoes. Larnaca has mosquitoes as sitting in palatial " Le Mat" mansion courtyard made me scratch my legs due to the mosquito menace although not very bad but irritating.
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| In Nicosia(ROC) a plush First World city .The center of business ,shipping and real estate. Greek Cypriot controlled Nicosia(ROC) is wealthier than the Turkish Cypriot North(TRNC) . |
Friday (19/9/2025)Larnaca:- As usual after normal toilet routines went to the ground floor kitchen of this palatial historic mansion and prepared some coffee.Weather was excellent, cool but not hot, World famous Mediterranean climate which is considered the best climate .Met Brazilian Mr Fabio who left for a holiday in Israel,a Globe trotter .I have stayed in quite a few palatial bungalows converted to hostels during my travels to different countries but " Le Mat" mansion in Larnaca is definitely one of the oldest mansion.Hope it is maintained this way akin to the centuries old historic edifices in its vicinity.Had a cup of coffee in the kitchen and after dressing up made my way to Finikoudes bus plaza.Early in the morning the beach shacks with their umbrellas were empty , a totally different sight compared to peak afternoon rush hours of Finikoudes Beach.Boarded the " Nicosia " bus with the bus ticket being Euro 5 for the 57 km journey and departure was at 0715 hrs.As the bus wound its way through Larnaca got to view the plush modern housing of the city.I was residing in the historic Old city of Larnaca, one of the World's 20 oldest continuously inhabited cities and definitely the oldest city in Cyprus.Finally we hit the highway and it was a smooth drive and on approaching the outskirts of South Nicosia got to view a ultra modern city with well maintained buildings and infrastructure. Nicosia,also known as Lefkosia is the capital and largest city of Cyprus and is geographically located in Asia.
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| Tourists in queue for the "LEDRA PEDESTRIAN BORDER" crossing from Nicosia(ROC) to Nicosia(TRNC) |
It is the southeasternmost of all European Union member states' capital cities. Finally at 0845 hrs reached Solomou Square Intercity Station bus terminus in Nicosia .Opposite the bus terminus is a small supermarket " Omiros Market( 1964)" and entering this market shop asked the owner for directions to " Ledra Street" , and he told me it was just approximately 200 meters down the road from his market.Purchased a cheese pattice and banana for a quick breakfast on a chair outside his shop.Ledra Street is a major shopping thoroughfare in central Nicosia, which links North Nicosia, the part of the city under the control of Northern Cyprus controlled by Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus and south Nicosia of Cyprus under the " Republic of Cyprus" which is a E.U member State and follows the rules and regulations of the European Union. As it was just 0915 hrs in the morning the normally busy Ledra Street was empty with the outdoor cafe's just setting up the tables and chairs for the day's business.Asking directions finally arrived at the border crossing and had to first get my passport verified at the " Republic of Cyprus(ROC)" check post and walking further was next checked at the Northern Cyprus(TRNC) check post. Noticed the palatial abandoned buildings between the divided North and South Nicosia border lines called the Green line.On entering North Nicosia was transformed into a different topography of bazar,mosque and Caravanserai.
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| Typical Turkish style street Bazar in North Nicosia(TRNC) |
The street side vendors were just setting their shops and walking along the narrow road of shops and restaurants reached Selimiye Mosque, a imposing edifice that dominates this vicinity of Northern Cyprus. Selimiye Mosque historically known as Cathedral of Saint Sophia or Ayasofya Mosque is a former Christian cathedral converted into a mosque. It has historically been the main mosque on the island of Cyprus. and is housed in the largest and oldest surviving Gothic church in Cyprus (interior dimensions. Entered the mosque ,very huge .From the mosque made my way to the Municipal market that was big and selling everything from meat products to vegetables and fruits.Walked back towards the hawkers main street and came across the Buyk Han.Büyük Han is the largest caravanserai on the island of Cyprus and is considered to be one of the finest buildings on the island.There was a open Cafeteria inside the Caravanserai and the same occupied by a few tourists and locals.Spotted a few very docile cats .On the hawkers street visited a small restaurant cum barber shop for the local " Efes " beer costing Euro 3 served along with peanuts.After the beer made my way out of North Cyprus with the same border check procedures and was amazed to see a huge crowd of tourists in queue at the check post for entry into North Cyprus(TRNC).
As I was early did not experience a queue as visiting North Cyprus through the Ledra Street checkpost is on most tourists agenda.Ledra street cafe's were now getting filled with customers as I made my way towards Solomou Square Intercity Station. Boarded the 1130 hrs bus and at 1230 was at Finikoudes promenade bus stop.
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| Larnaca Municipal Market. |
Visited The Church of Saint Lazarus a late-9th century church that belongs to the Church of Cyprus, a section of the Greek Orthodox Church.This church is built over the tomb of the saint by Byzantine Emperor Leo VI in the 9th century. The church was restored in the 17th century and although the three domes and original bell tower of the church were destroyed in the first years during Ottoman rule, the gold-covered iconostasis has survived today and is a superb example of baroque wood carving.Saint Lazarus came to Cyprus after being resurrected by Jesus. He was ordained as Bishop of Kition by the Apostles Barnabas and Paul and lived in the town for 30 years.
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| On Larnaca Fort facing the Mediterranean Sea. |
His tomb can be seen under the sanctuary which tourists are allowed to visit. The saint is revered and a procession is held in his honour eight days before Easter. During the procession, the icon of Saint Lazarus is carried through the streets of Larnaca. Next to the church is the Byzantine Museum which charges tourists Euro 1 for entry but photography is not allowed.Visited the museum which exhibits important religious icons, artefacts and relics of Christianity.Visited the Medieval Castle of Larnaca also called the Larnaca Fort situated just 50 meters from " Le Mat" hostel which is believed to have been originally built during the Middle Ages, and took its present form during Ottoman rule, although there is some contestation regarding its origins.Entry fee to the castle was Euro 2.5 .There is a museum on a upper floor of this fort which has three rooms showcasing 15 centuries of history, with exhibits and artefacts from the Early Christian period (4th-7th centuries), Byzantine wall-paintings of the 11th – 16th centuries, Medieval glazed pottery from the 12th-18th century, helmets and swords of the Venetian period (15th-16th century), and metal cooking utensils of the Ottoman period (18th-19th century). The courtyard features a collection of Ottoman cannons and also accommodates a 600-seat open-air theatre that is used for functions in the summer.
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| Cannons inside Larnaca Fort. |
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| View of Finikoudes beach and Larnaca Marina as seen from Larnaca Fort. |
At night just had a walk along Finikoudes promenade bustling with tourists and lit up restaurant but no night clubs or loud music.Had a snack at " Kentucky Fried Chicken" and made my way to home away from home." Le Mat" hostel at night resembled a private mansion with its huge courtyard, lights and Old World extremely high ceilings with palatial broad staircases.Straight out of a " Great Gatsby" era of wealthy mansions.Hope the mansion structure is maintained in its present historic way and not demolished into a luxury apartment as most public buildings in Larnaca main city are of the 21st century era, ultra plush First World buildings.
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| At Limassol Cruise Terminal . Cruise ship "Nautica" has just arrived in Limassol. |
Saturday (20/9/2025) Larnaca:- At 0700 hrs arrived at Finikoudes Marina bus stop to board the bus to Limassol. Bus was late and there was a big crowd ,mostly young employees and not tourists on their way to various jobs in Limassol city.Besides beaches and water sports , a big hit among Caucasian tourists along there is nothing much to sightsee in Cyprus for the average budget tourist.Besides walking on the roads of Cyprus during daytime is torturous due to intense heat of the Sun's rays.Having visited Malta and now Cyprus understood the definition of Mediterranean type of climate,the best climatic condition in the World.Although cool and not humid unlike tropical climates the Sun's rays are too intense during summer in Mediterranean Countries. Cyprus is expensive but definitely much cheaper than Reykjavik in Iceland.Boarding the bus resulted in heavy rush,rarely seen in First World Countries and a literal fist fight developed between a young black man and a white man, presumably both employees on their way to their respective jobs.The bus driver intervened and all's well that ends well.Bus fare to Limassol was Euro 5 and departure was at 0730 hrs, excellent buses with functioning A/ C.The Limassol route was different from yesterday's Nicosia route and encountered less traffic.
NOTE : ABOVE VIDEO IS OF THE KAMARES AQUEDUCT
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| Driving along Limassol city.. |
Cyprus doesn't have forests with most land being barren.Finally our bus drove along the Mediterranean sea coast and approaching Limassol came across a string of beach side hotels.The Turkish intervention of 1974 in northern Cyprus and the closing of the island’s main port at Famagusta made Limassol the chief port of the Republic of Cyprus. The port has also taken over much of the trade that once passed through Beirut. In the 1970s and ’80s Limassol also became home to many thousands of prosperous Arab refugees from Lebanon and immigrants from Saudi Arabia and Kuwait.In the present 21st century high net worth individuals and millionaires can migrate to Cyprus applying for permanent residency under the " Golden Visa" scheme that has certain investment clauses.Most chose Limassol and hence it is the wealthiest city in Cyprus. I alighted at the last stop which to my dismay was the lavish cruise terminal of Limassol. A cruise ship " Nautica" had just docked and passengers were boarding their respective cruise buses for a guided tour of Cyprus.As for me the Nomadic tourist was totally stranded at Limassol Cruise terminal akin to being in the midst of the desert in blazing hot Sun.
To the northeast is the Limassol Archaeological Museum, exhibiting artifacts from the Neolithic to the Roman periods.
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| Windmills along the Cyprus countryside. |
As for me would be viewing none of this, deciding to catch the next bus to Larnaca.Time was too short besides I was tired at the fag end of my hectic solo marathon travel with " JET LAG" taking it's toll.In Cyprus you require private transport for sightseeing or if time permits join local group tours which strangely is not much advertised unlike Malta or Reykjavik.At least I had travelled by bus to Limassol which was a achievement as Cyprus to me in my hectic tour schedule meant just sightseeing Larnaca.
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| Unique Graffiti artwork building in Larnaca city. |
Met a young Indian student Mr Gaurishankar from Rajasthan on his way to Nicosia and we both had a brief talk in Hindi language.He told me that Limassol was atrociously expensive compared to other towns and cities in Cyprus.Mr Gaurishankar boarded the bus to Nicosia with my bus arriving a little later at 0930 hrs and on the homeward journey appreciated the wealth and cleanliness of Limassol city, a typical jewel among First World city's.Most prominent among the buildings was " Marco Polo " , a 12 storey luxury building tilting at a unique angle of 22* akin to the " Leaning Tower of Pisa". I was hungry having fasted the entire morning due to necessity as early morning breakfast was not available unlike in Malta ,which climatically is identical to Cyprus. Hence lunch was very lavish and expensive, money saved on sightseeing spent on replenishing the tummy.Solo budget travellers remember to budget your expenditure otherwise you will have a disappointing travel experience or still worse run out of money , underestimating the cost of living of the city's you would be visiting.Did I mention Reykjavik ! Hence if a budget traveller " GROUP TOURS" are safest as everything on the tour is made to order by the tour company and no extra expenditure required irrespective of city visiting or tour reschedules. As for me , till I am physically fit to travel it will always be on my own terms ," SOLO TRAVEL".Lunch was " Sun Bream Fish with Greek rice / Bread" downed with beer at " Panos Steak House Restaurant " facing Finikoudes promenade.
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| "Sun Beam Fish" Greek Style. |
After ages relished authentic seafood ,fresh fish straight from the Mediterranean sea onto the frying pan and served Greek Style.Wonder if one of my hero's , late shipping Magnate Aristotle. Onassis was a seafood lover ? I loved this Greek recipe of " Sun Beam Fish" which compensated the touch and go sightseeing bus travel to Limassol. In life you win some ,you lose some.The bill amounted to Euro 22, excellent for the quality of food and ambiance.Later in the evening strolled into Larnaca Old Town and entered "Aphrodite's Secret" ,a shop specializing in selling local Cypriot dry fruits and sweets. Purchased some dry fruits.Visited the next building ,Djami Kebir mosque whose portion of wall support is linked with " Le Mat" hostel building.Djami Kebir Mosque, also known as Grand Mosque, is situated next to Larnaca Fort .Originally a Latin Holy Cross church, it was later converted into a mosque and its interior was typical of a mosque with a bookshelf at a corner.Everyday in the evening the Muezzin's call for prayer can be heard clearly next building in " Le Mat " hostel.My last night in Larnaca was a simple walk along Finikoudes promenade ,but this time walked in the opposite direction of Larnaca castle .
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| View of Finikoudes Promenade at dusk from the sea . |
Came across plush cafe's and seeing the amount of hotels and restaurants in Cyprus competing for business I wonder about the profit/ loss ratio among these hospitality businesses.Spotted a packed restaurant with a tall windmill sculpture it's distant attraction.Entered packed to capacity " Militzis Restaurant". This restaurant has a history dating back to 1930, with its Larnaca location established in 1984, and it is a roaring success.Dinner was " Pork in Wine" along with a glass of beer.Excellent pork with potatoes and bread of which I parceled half the roast pork for breakfast tomorrow morning.Too large a helping for a single person, besides lunch was also a gigantic fish dish.I didn't want to mimic Late wrestler Andre the Giant as a prolific eater.Excellent with the bill amounting to Euro 16.5. Walked the short distance back to home away from home, " Le Mat " hostel.My last night in Le Mat hostel.
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| Picture postcard Finikoudes Promenade located south of Larnaca Fort with its iconic palm trees that resemble a artificial designed landscape.. |
Sunday (21/9/2025) Larnaca .Departure to Mumbai and " www.kiwi.com" airline ticketing fraud :- Everything has a end including a " Solo Travel" .As usual prepared coffee in the kitchen of this palatial ancient mansion converted into a hostel.At 0630 hrs heard the church bells of historic " Church of St Lazarus" chime.This tiny piece of Old historic Larnaca including " Le Mat" hostel has been preserved in its ancient topographical structure while rest of Larnaca including the Finikoudes promenade facing buildings are ultra modern structures.
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| A traffic jam of sail boats in Larnaca Marina. A mystery to me as to how this motorized sail boat manage to get past the line of parked boats inside the marina. |
Tourists from across the Globe residing at " Le Mat" hostel,definitely the best location in Larnaca for budget and backpacker travellers.Churchbells keep on chiming at regular intervals on Sunday morning.Guests just walk out of " Le Mat" Hostel in their beach wear with Finikoudes beach being just across the road. Classic location .At 0830 hrs bid adieu to " Le Mat" hostel and walked the distance to " Larnaca Marina Bay" where the yachts are parked and tour boats arrive and depart.Larnaca Marina offers world-class mooring, 360 berths for yachts up to 40m and is situated only 7 kilometers away from Larnaca International Airport, which is Cyprus’ primary air hub, ensuring direct and easy access to vessels.
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| View of Larnaca Old City from the boat with Djami Kebir Mosque Minaret , a landmark. |
Had booked for the " Yellow Submarine Boat" tour on- line from Mumbai and today would be experiencing the same.Departure was scheduled for 1000 hrs and as I was early whiled away my time loitering in the vicinity and finally at 0930 hrs parking myself inside the " Yellow Submarine".I joined this cruise just to view the " ZENOBIA SHIPWRECK" off the coast of Larnaca.
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| All Set,Ready,Dive ! At ZENOBIA SHIPWRECK site about to snorkel in the vicinity to view the sunken ship. |
Got a beautiful view of Larnaca coastline from the boat with the Mediterranean sea being a bit choppy, although externally seeming deceptively calm.We went upto Mckenzie Beach which is next to Larnaca airport and got to view a plane take -off from the airport runway.As mentioned it was a choppy sea with heavy swell and the waves literally entering the boat from the bow(forward) end which was covered with plastic to avoid splashing of sea water onto the cruise tourists.Finally we arrived at the " ZENOBIA SHIPWRECK SITE" and we all 8 tourists went to the semi submersible deck below the main deck of the " Yellow Submarine Boat ". Got to view the silhouette of the Zenobia lying on its side as also spotting numerous small fish but no large fish species.Capt Castro told us that the big fish live inside the ships wreck which would be visible to scuba divers.After viewing the wreck from the " Yellow Submarine " glass bottom windows we changed into swimwear and began snorkeling in the vicinity.Excellent but visibility was poor and sea rough. I last visited a shipwreck in 2014 during my " SCUBA Diving Course" in Tulamben in Bali when during training we scuba dived to view the " Liberty Ship Wreck" off the coast of Tulamben.Memories of a lifetime.Here in Larnaca the view of the Zenobia shipwreck during snorkeling was faintly visible.A boat had also arrived with Scuba divers and I am sure they viewed the best underwater sites of Zenobia.
Drinks were included in the cost of the " Yellow Submarine " cruise and relished 2 beer cans during the 2 hrs coasting and Zenobia shipwreck viewing / Snorkeling ,a day to remember
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| A "DIVE BOAT" with scuba divers at "ZENOBIA SHIPWRECK SITE". The "ZENOBIA SHIPWRECK" is considered one of the 10 best shipwreck dive sites in the World. |
Finally at 1200 hrs with ship board punctuality we arrived back at the Larnaca Marina.Lunch was " Beef black pepper sauce/ Rice " costing Euro 10 at " Tuck Inn" restaurant at Athens avenue facing Finikoudes promenade. Excellent .I have eaten different non- vegetarian dishes in the best restaurants in Larnaca and the food in all of them was excellent although atrociously expensive in comparison to our Indian cost of living.Hopoed into McDonalds and took a " Royal cheese burger" parcel for dinner. From McDonalds walked the short distance in blistering Sun to the Larnaca Intercity Marina bus stand.Suddenly two young Sikhs and another Indian arrived at the bus stop and picked up a conversation with them .
They were in Cyprus for studying as are most young Indians and thanks to them realized I was standing at the wrong bus stop.The Larnaca Airport bus arrives at the common bus stand which is much further away from Finikoudes Marina bus terminus.
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| A wonderful cruise along Larnaca coastline and snorkeling over the "Zenobia Shipwreck Site". Drinks during the cruise. |
Finally after a long walk reached Larnaca local bus terminus and after a short waiting period boarded the " N0 425" bus to the airport. On the way to the airport passed alongside Larnaca salt lakes. Larnaca Salt Lake is a complex network of four salt lakes of different sizes to the west of the city of Larnaca. The largest is lake Aliki, followed by lake Orphani, lake Soros and lake Spiro.Besides its picturesque beauty, the lake is the haunt of 85 species of water-birds with estimated populations between 20,000 and 38,000.It is one of the important migratory passages through Cyprus. Among the species are 2,000–12,000 flamingoes (Phoenicopterus roseus) which spend the winter months there feeding off populations of the brine shrimp. During the winter months the lake fills with water while in summer the water evaporates which was what i was viewing leaving a crust of salt and a haze of grey dust.Salt harvested from this lake used to be one of the island's major exports, being collected with donkeys, carried to the edge of the lake, and piled up into huge pyramidal heaps. With rising labour costs harvesting dwindled to a negligible amount and stopped altogether in 1986 as the island now imports most of this commodity. Finally in a very happy frame of mind reached Larnaca Airport departure lounge.As I was early relaxed on the chair and whiled away my time on the Internet.A young gentleman came and sat next to me and on hearing the meowing of a cat in a flexible cat carrier bag picked up a conversation with Mr Thanos, a Greek national who had worked in Larnaca and Crete.
The cat he was carrying in the carrier was his pet " Myka" who while being transported from Larnaca to Athens had escaped from her carrier bag into the airport surroundings .
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| View the northern section of Finikoudes Promenade from Larnaca Fort. |
The airport officials finally found her and hence Mr Thanos had flown all the way from Athens to collect Myka and take her back home to Athens.He left along with " Myka" for the check-in and I casually checked the plane departure indicator surprised to find " Wizzair Abu Dhabi " flight missing from the display screen.On inquiry at the airport inquiry reception , the shock delivered to me was akin to a heavyweight knockout punch and going for the count.Thankfully I got back to my feet after this economic catastrophe.
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| Finikoudes Promenade Road at Night |
Would someone in Mumbai with airline knowledge help me file a complaint with the Airline Governing body against this daylight fraud robbery ? Total ,I had spent Rs 3 lakhs buying double air flight tickets on " EMERGENCY BASIS" .Once in 2023 European travel which was my error regarding Abu Dhabi transit visa regulations. But, today, of all the things a reputed multimillion dollar on-line travel agency like " www.Kiwi.Com" fleeced me.I was not bothered about the loss as my business as a "Investor" involves daily such notional losses or profits. But, imagine if I didn't have " HARD CASH " to pay for ticket then what would have been my status ? HOW DO I GO ABOUT THE PROCEDURE OF SUING " WWW.KIWI.COM" ? Thanks to.my speculation business and gambling aptitude that I didn't suffer a mild stroke or go bonkers .
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| "TOMORROW IS ALWAYS ANOTHER DAY" ! I would have not witnessed this beautiful Sunrise over Larnaca if i had to board my normal scheduled Wizzair flight to Abu Dhabi yesterday. |
Such was the shock . Next biggest hurdle was paying the Euro 1455 by my travel card as the " Emirates" payment had a " Card Tap" payment method.I have withdrawn cash numerous times from ATM machines in European countries before but was hesitant this time after the combination of unbelievable air booking losses causing a loss in confidence.
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| Statue of General Kimon the Athenian Statesman on Finikoudes Promenade. |
Finally with the guidance of a European encashed money and paid " Emirates" in cash.Relieved that at least i could afford to pay my " Double" air fare for no fault of mine. A conservative middle class spender i always keep cash in reserve for any emergency and that habit saved my day.After purchasing the ticket , akin to a local boarded the " No 425 " bus and headed for a second time to home away from home ,"Le Mat" hostel.At least accommodation for the night was available but expensive at Euro 28.Its a popular quote that you lose fear once you conquer what you fear most.Bizarrely, thanks to this airline cheating case that I have lost monetary fear of spending money and going bankrupt akin to doing " Bungy Jumping" and losing the fear of heights. Here I had suffered a physical monetary loss while at home at times during a bear phase in my investment business have seen stock market quotes fall and my portfolio notional value collapse akin to a house of cards. Didn't panic or get irritated in " STOCK MARKET CRASHES" as these were cyclical " NOTIONAL LOSSES" and not "HARD CASH LOSSES".Most notably in recent memory over the decades is the " 2008 U.S Housing collapse", " Covid -19 Stock market collapse" and recently " President Donald Trump Taxation" effect on Stock markets in India.
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| Larnaca, one of the World's oldest continuously inhabited city. |
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| Unbelievable number of Yachts parked in Larnaca Marina Bay. 360 berths for Yachts up to 40 m length. |
Monday(22/9/2025)Rescheduled departure from Larnaca to Mumbai :- Had a early morning walk along Finikoudes promenade and observed the most expensive sunrise of my solo travels. Euro 1455( Rs 1,55,000) for a extra overnight stay in Larnaka due to a fraud ticket booking by " www.kiwi.com ".Came across a beautiful black stray cat that released my tension as pets are a solace in times of distress and mental isolation.My greatest asset is I quickly get over my sorrows, monetary or emotional.Thanks to my profession as a former seafarer and now at present as a "Investor".
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| Came across a few Indian students studying in Cyprus. |
Breakfast was "Cyprus Breakfast" at " Tuck Inn" restaurant, my favourite restaurant having eaten there repeatedly otherwise always trying new plush restaurants.This restaurant has Indian staff from Punjab, two young stewardesses and a chef.Hence I observed their food was more spicy. Relaxed in the palatial hostel garden as there is nothing much to do in Larnaca besides being a beach addict and a foodie .All the sightseeing is just in the next door neighbourhood of Le Mat hostel with just a few tourist sites outside the main Old City of Larnaca. Thanks to the old World setting of the hostel and the wild dove hatching it's eggs on the creeper inside the mansion that I felt a farmhouse environment.
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| This beautiful stray cat soothed my frayed nerves and pets are best therapy for anxiety and stress. |
Finally at 1300 hrs bid goodbye for the second time to " Le Mat" hostel and walked out onto Finikoudes promenade in the hot overhead afternoon Mediterranean sunshine.Lunch was " Szechuan Beef/ Rice", prepared in Chinese / Indian recipe.Excellent with the bill amounting to Euro 13.40.In the hostel almost all the guests cooked as eating out in plush restaurants of Finikoudes Promenade is the equivalent of daily eating in a Star hotel in my home city of Mumbai.Whiled away 2 hrs of my time in plush " Tuck Inn" restaurant watching the tourists and crowded Finikoudes beach in the blazing hot Mediterranean sunshine. Lots of watersports meant mostly for Caucasian tourists who love the Sun to get that authentic tan besides the 6 pack physique if young or a fitness fanatic.Walked the long straight route along Finikoudes promenade from " Tuck Inn " restaurant to Larnaca Bus Station.The " N0 425 " bus has a frequency of 20 minutes and after a short while of waiting boarded the " N0 425" bus to Airport ticket being Euro 2.5.At 1545 hrs was at the airport and checked the Airlines indicator board with " Emirates Airlines" check-in being windows 33-40.Relaxed on the same seats as yesterday akin to a local knowing the airports departure lounge layout.First time in my lifetime of travel have returned to the same airport for departure on 2 consecutive days.But better than spending a entire night in Paris Charles De Gaulle airport and Cantana airport in Sicily as I did in 2023 during the " Abu Dhabi " visa fiasco where I paid a extra double fare of Rs 1,50,000 akin to what I was paying today for the emergency " Emirates" flight to Mumbai.
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| End to a memorable and expensive 'Double Air Ticket" travel holiday. |
Lightning had struck me twice and both the times a survivor.Truth is stranger than fiction.The stock market had also declined and so departure Larnaca I was both physically tired as well as in big personal monetary and notional losses.Tomorrow is another day and the Sun will rise again and life goes on as usual.A big tour group of Chinese tourists on the Emirates plane flying from transit Dubai to Bejing.The few Chinese tourists sitting next to me were not fluent in English language.Finally checked - in and collected both my boarding passes and made my way to immigration.For the first time in my air travel episodes had to undergo a robot auto-check where I had to manually place my passport in a scanning machine which self clicked my photo and handed me a slip.Next procedure was handing over the slip to a human immigration officer who on checking the receipt allotted us different queues for the final immigration stamp on the passport done which was completed by a immigration officer sitting in the normal immigration box.The most complicated departure immigration check i have faced among all countries visited. After immigration as usual walked through " Duty Free " section which was excellent and large and finally to " Gate N0 44" to board Emirates " EK 110".Boarding time was punctual and for the first time sat on seat " N0 38E" which along with 3 other seats faces the bulkhead partition of a section of the plane having the main large common T.V but no private T.V in front of the chair.The young lady next to me was with her young child and a cradle cot was fitted for the child by the stewardess.
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| Finally departure Larnaca to Mumbai. |
First time in my flying travels have seen this arrangement for a baby on a plane.Excellent dinner of lamb along with drinks.Arrived in Dubai at 0105 hrs and immediately went through the transfer route onto security check and finally arriving at Gate " A 19a ".Dubai airport was crowded and at 0245 hrs was prompt on boarding " Ek0504" and occupying seat "16F" with the plane taking off at 0310 hrs.This was my 9th and last plane of the "Mumbai-Malta-Reykjavik-Larnaca" marathon travel beginning from Mumbai on Monday(1/9/2025) and now terminating back home in Mumbai on Wednesday(23/9/2025).In all my "Solo Travels" have never changed these many planes to complete my entire end to end travel odyssey , a record in my personal travels achievement.I was competing a travel marathon against myself, bettering my own previous marathon travel record.Also another dubious achievement was being cheated by the travel company 'www.kiwi.com" for the booking on "Wizz air Abu Dhabi " flight no "5W7006" from Larnaca to Abu Dhabi on Monday(21/9/2025) that was non-existent. Hence forcing me to book a last minute "Emergency Economy Air ticket" from Larnaca to Mumbai with Emirates Airlines costing a unbelievable Euro 1455(Rs 1,55,000).
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| Rerouted "Double Air Ticket".In Dubai awaiting my transit flight to Mumbai. |
Watched the biographical movie of singer Freddie. Mercury , "Bohemian Rhapsody" on the inflight T.V. Plane for which actor Rami Malek won the Oscar for his portrayal of Freddie Mercury.Landed in Mumbai at 0810 hrs on a wet morning and after immigration purchased chocolates and 2 whisky bottles, my normal purchases during air travel.Walked the distance from airport departure terminal to the " Metro 3 Blue Line" station and purchasing a ticket of Rs 50 travelled in A/C luxury to Siddhivinayak station and walked the 10 minutes distance to my residence on Old Prabhadevi road.The first time in my life of foreign travel that i travelled both ways to the International airport from my home by local train and not the normal taxi.
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| REFUND RECEIPT OF " www.kiwi.com". |
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| TRAVEL INSURANCE CLAIM REJECTION LETTER FROM " IIFCO - TOKIO GENERAL INSURANCE Co.LTD " |













































































































































































































